There’s something very special about being surrounded by sea ice. Mainly it provides a clear sense of place, for one can only be a part of such a scene at very high latitudes, in very remote places. Today was one of those days. From very early on this morning, ice was our companion, beginning at about 2:30 a.m., the sound and sensation of ice against the hull of our stout vessel woke us from our bunks to begin a search for polar bears from the comfort of the bridge. The conditions were ideal—clear skies and almost no wind made for a stunning setting. Between 50 and 70 percent of the surface was packed with ice. Our vigil lasted well into the morning with no sign of bears, just old tracks. At about 9:30, our expedition leader made the call for us to set out in Zodiacs and explore more intimately this “fortress of solitude.” This proved to be a very rewarding outing. The temperature was a balmy four degrees Celsius, there was no wind, and everywhere one looked the magic of the Arctic was there. At 76˚48’ north, one couldn’t ask for a more enriching experience. But there was one more way to embrace this experience, the polar plunge! Out of about 140 guests on board, only 20 or so brave and bold souls opted for a full immersion in the Arctic. The remainder of the day was spent picking our way out of the relatively dense pack ice and taking in the splendor and beauty of the north.
6/13/2024
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National Geographic Endurance
Fjortende Julibukta and Lilliehöökbreen
Our last day in Svalbard began with a wintery feeling. National Geographic Endurance sailed towards the entrance of Krossfjorden while it was gently snowing. Our morning destination was 14th of July Bay. This was our last outing in Spitsbergen and we could not have picked a better spot to end our unforgettable voyage. The landing area was covered with spring flowers which painted the otherwise barren looking landscape with green, white, and purple colors. Svalbard reindeers were contently grazing in the outskirts of the steep cliffs, enjoying the place also known as “hanging gardens.” Thousands of kittiwakes were loudly soaring above us. Occasionally a fight would break out between a kittiwake and an Arctic skua, who clearly was not very welcomed in the nesting site of the gulls. A Zodiac cruise also offered us great wildlife encounters. The shoreline was a popular nesting place for the guillemots, eider ducks, and the Atlantic puffins. After lunch, Captain Oliver positioned our vessel in front of another spectacular sight, Lillehöök Glacier. After an hour-long cruise, we reluctantly bid farewell to Krossfjorden and made our way towards Longyearbyen.