And away we go! Today marked the first day on our incredible journey across the Atlantic Ocean, from Cape to Cape. Having left South America behind us, we spent today cruising towards the Falkland Islands, our first stop. After spending the morning getting to know the expedition staff and preparing our gear for our first remote island visit, we enjoyed learning about seabirds from resident bird nerd Jamie Coleman, the entomological wonders of Patagonia from National Geographic expert Isai Madriz, and expert tips for smartphone photography from photo instructor extraordinaire Eric Guth. With calm seas and blue skies, we were treated to great views of several species of procellariforms throughout the day. We are ready to see more exciting bird species in the days to come.
With the westerlies pushing us in the right direction, our way to South Georgia was more pleasant than expected. We were not alone on our journey as we were surrounded by different kinds of seabirds and even had hourglass dolphins playing at the bow of National Geographic Explorer . The guests enjoyed the presentations we provided for them, and the staff took advantage of the spare time to prepare and store properly all the equipment that has been used for the Antarctic season so it will be ready to be used again during the Arctic season. It was a very relaxing day onboard our lovely National Geographic Explorer .
The weather was in our favor for our first full day in South Georgia. The day commenced with an early morning cruise in the Willis Islands followed by a Zodiac expedition in Elsehul Bay. We saw a range of wildlife, including fur seals, three species of penguins, and albatrosses. Once back on the ship we relocated to Salisbury Plain to the second largest colony of king penguins in South Georgia. We again explored this coastline by Zodiac which allowed us to get very close to the thousands of king penguins on the shoreline and in the water. There was also a large number of young, curious fur seals and even a couple of elephant seals hauled up on the beach. After a quick break back on the ship, we set out again at nearby Prion Island. This island is an important nesting area for several species of seabirds. While cruising around this island later in the day, we were rewarded with golden light and great views of gentoo penguins and several species of albatross gliding past. We also cruised past some very impressive icebergs.
The ship awoke on the productive Southern Ocean immersed in fog and surrounded by icebergs, a navigational dream for the bridge team. As we sailed away from South Georgia towards our next destination, visibility increased for spells, offering brief glimpses of ice, albatrosses, petrels, and fin whales to those close to the windows. Fortunately, there was a rich line up of presentations, including ones by our guest scientists and our National Geographic photographer.
When a day in the middle of the south Atlantic Ocean breaks calm, clear, and stable, wildlife potential comes to everyone’s mind. Today, we were not disappointed. Before noon we were greeted with dozens of southern right whale dolphins, torpedoing their way across the ocean’s surface, bound, very rapidly, for who knows where? Soon thereafter dozens of low, puffy blows were seen off the bow. At first blush they looked like killer whales but before long they turned our way and revealed themselves as long-finned pilot whales. Perhaps 2-3 dozen individuals spread out in different areas surrounded us, but one group took particular interest and came over to investigate! After the excitement settled, so did the pace of the day. The crew was busy keeping the vessel ship-shape which always warrants admiration. A few photo shoots ensued, first of the cabin stewardesses, then some of the deck crew, and finally, Dario, the ship’s bosun. Thank you, as always, to all the Filipino crew, and here’s to more magical sea-days between here and Tristan da Cunha.
Today was a truly remarkable day aboard National Geographic Explorer . We arrived to the Tristan da Cunha island group and landed at Edinburgh of the Seven Seas, the community of the namesake island, Tristan da Cunha. This is the world’s most remote inhabited island. It was an extreme pleasure to get the chance to go ashore and explore both the community and the landscape.
Last night, in the early hours, National Geographic Explorer arrived in the Falkland Islands, anchoring off the shore of Bleaker Island. We spent the whole day at Bleaker, where guests were treated to walks over the grass-covered island to two separate penguin colonies. We spotted an astounding five species of penguins: rockhopper, macaroni, king, gentoo, and Magellanic. Our divers explored a dense kelp forest and had close interactions with a curious group of South American sea lions. As we sailed away, we were treated to sightings of dolphins and many seabirds.
Days at sea are wonderful. Today we had an eventful day in anticipation of our arrival to our next exciting stop on this journey across the South Atlantic, the one and only South Georgia. Lucky to have calm following seas continuing throughout the day, we enjoyed learning about the history and wildlife unique to this region from our expedition team, including stories of Captain James Cook, the seal species that call this place home, and the adaptations that animals have mastered to survive in cold environments. As the air and sea temperatures continued to drop, we decontaminated our expedition layers in between views of seabirds and cetaceans around us. Our day was not yet over, with more to learn about king penguins from our resident South Georgia science expert, Jamie Coleman. We are now more ready than ever to see these amazing species over the coming days.
We were incredibly fortunate to have exceptionally calm and sunny weather for our second day in South Georgia. Just minutes after sunrise, a group of us were onshore and hiking in the footsteps of Shackleton towards Stromness. Another party visited the Fortuna king penguin colony. Over lunch we sailed through a veritable ice sculpture exhibit with hundreds of icebergs stranded along the coast of South Georgia, set against the Allardyce Range in all its glory: razor sharp snowy peaks flanked by glaciers. The afternoon was spent exploring the Grytviken whaling station museum and kayaking around the bay. We ended the day with an endorphin-pumping polar plunge.
Today was an excellent day spent at sea crossing the South Atlantic on National Geographic Explorer . We crossed the polar front early in the morning, moving into warmer waters and warmer climes. This shift brought with it new bird species and marine mammals. Standouts included our first sightings of the spectacled petrel and the remarkable southern right whale dolphin!
Our final day at sea enroute to the ocean’s most remote island group (with human habitation) has been one of reflection and preparation. With photos to edit and lingering memories of South Georgia still fresh on our minds, we heard a couple presentations on the state of invasive species in these remote island groups, foreshadowing the fact that this is an issue even in the planets most remote archipelago. A fresh wind and precipitation followed us throughout the day, but the air temperature is rising along with the humidity, something the crew aboard this ship has not felt in many months. Moving north will slowly bring with it new species of animals as well. Many eyes stayed glued to the windows even though rest and relaxation were key components to the day; all preparation for an exciting 3 days ahead on the islands of Tristan da Cunha.
Today was one of the most exhilarating days of the whole expedition so far. We started the day with a 90-minute Zodiac cruise along the coast of Nightingale Island. This extremely remote island, some 43 kilometers south-southeast of Tristan da Cunha, was always going to be a challenge to see, with big swells and high winds. But we were extremely lucky. The swell and winds decreased and the sun came out. We carefully maneuvered Zodiacs to a place where we got excellent close-up views of northern rockhopper penguins. Approximately 90% of this small penguin species, with its weird long yellow crest, breed in these islands. It was such a treat to watch them and take photographs, while sitting in a Zodiac just off shore. Sub-Antarctic fur seals were also in abundance and added to the excitement. After lunch we relocated to Inaccessible Island, another volcanic island around 31 kilometers from Tristan da Cunha. We took a ship cruise around the island getting wonderful views of the abundance of seabirds, including great shearwaters, yellow-nosed albatrosses, and spectacled petrels. We waited until the winds receded before heading out again.
