Krossfjord, Svalbard, 5/1/2025, National Geographic Resolution
Aboard the
National Geographic Resolution
Arctic
Today was our first full day of adventure in Svalbard. The morning began with limited visibility which improved throughout the day, providing us with clear skies later. We spent the morning alongside Lilliehöökbreen, a magnificent glacier with a 7-kilometer-long tidewater front, while we had our introductory briefings and carried out our bio decontamination.
In the afternoon, we navigated a bit further south to Fjortende Julibukta which translates to the 14th of July Bay. Here, we were able to Zodiac cruise as well as go kayaking. A wildlife highlight here was seeing many spectacular king eiders!
An experienced traveler, Michael has lived on several continents, including a year spent working as a naturalist and zoologist in Galápagos and three months in Kenya conducting a study of birds of prey. He is the author o f Galápagos: A Natural Histo...
What a spectacular way to end a trip!!!!! Calm winds, sunny skies, and a glorious expanse of stunning sea ice greeted us as we were gently woken over the PA system. A harp seal and a hooded seal had been spotted ahead of National Geographic Resolution , and we rose from our beds with excitement! The excitement continued when we were able to park our capable ship amongst the sea ice safely enough to step out of our “penguin gate” and walk right down onto the ice. Floating on such a fragile habitat amongst melt pools and pressure ridges was an incredible experience. Up next, for those not satisfied with walking on ice, we were then invited to swim amongst it! We finished off our morning activities with a polar plunge north of 80 degrees latitude. As we steamed back to Longyearbyen, the expedition feels more like a dream than a reality.
Arriving to Alkefjellet this morning, we weren’t too sure what to expect- would the Brünnich’s guillemots that call these cliffs home still be out at their wintering feeding grounds, or would some have returned to begin the courtship and nesting process of springtime? Our questions were quickly answered during our early morning approach, as the sky started to fill with tiny black snitches making their way too and from the cliffs. The undersea team took advantage of the opportunity to dive under the fertile cliffs, the marine life similarly aflutter with the influx of nutrients from above. But the real treat was heading out in Zodiacs to experience the sheer number of birds- estimated at more than 60,000 breeding pairs. The sky was abuzz, the water was abuzz, the cliffs were abuzz. It was hard to know where to focus! Luckily, we had plenty of time on the water to take it all in before checking in with the cocoa boat for a warm tipple to help us recover. This afternoon we turned and set sail northbound, hoping to find more four-legged friends on the ice. All eyes on deck, scouting the horizon, looking for that tell-tale sign of a yellowish blur that hopefully moves, bringing confidence that we have indeed encountered the king of the north, the polar bear.
It is a rare thing indeed to find a place to land where only ONE person on the expedition team has been before. There can be very few of these destinations in any polar region, such is the breadth of experience we have on board, and yet we accomplished this today. A stiff breeze following National Geographic Resolution chilled early risers as we traversed the north coast of Spitsbergen Island towards the east. Our destination was an island – well more accurately a shingle bank called Moffen – which is a nature reserve. Timing is significant when visiting the islands of Svalbard, especially in the nature reserves, which are closed between May 15th and September 1st. An early scout in our Zodiacs took the rifle team out to look for a landing. Ice everywhere, including brash ice and old chunks of pack ice resembling piles of Legos. There was a small piece of shore upon which we could land our Zodiacs. Immediately a plan was made, and people came ashore. The ice returned, and we retreated until after lunch, and then, lo and behold, we were able to land everyone from the ship onto this little piece of nowhere. At 80 degrees north, there is nothing between Moffen and the North Pole apart from ice and water. What a remarkable Mother’s Day!
