Espiritu Santo

Today was spent exploring the group of islands known as Espiritu Santo, or the Holy Ghost. After sunrise, we entered the spectacular bay of Ensenada Grande, and went ashore for hiking and kayaking. Due to heavy rains in September, the canyon was overgrown with vegetation, and flowers were everywhere. The air was swarming with butterflies and dragonflies, and the endemic ground squirrels were happily feasting on the fresh growth of some legume vines. There was so much vegetation that in places it was difficult to find a place to walk without trampling something flowering!

The bay of Ensenada Grande could be one of the greatest places for kayaking in the world, and today the conditions were perfect. The cliffs lining the shore are composed of pillow-like volcanic rocks that have been eroded by the wave action, creating tunnels and caves that are the perfect home for Sally Lightfoot crabs. No wind and clear water made for great visibility of the many fishes and invertebrates, but without getting wet. It was so relaxing to drift along the shore on the mirror-like surface, gazing up at the cardon cactus and then looking down at the king angelfish.

During lunch the Sea Lion repositioned to Los Islotes, a small island filled with nesting sea birds and a rookery of California sea lions. Many of us hopped in for a snorkel and were rewarded with huge schools of herring, a wide variety of other fishes, and of course the playful sea lions. They led us in a graceful ballet, twisting and turning, showing off their amazing flexibility. It was hard to tell who was having more fun. Big males patrolled their territories while the juveniles were more playful and acrobatic, at times coming face to face with us.

Our final means of exploration was a Zodiac cruise around Los Islotes, giving close up views of the sea lions and the birds. Courtship dances of the blue-footed boobies were observed, along with brown pelicans, cormorants, and great blue herons. As the sun was setting, a tornado of birds was circling above the rocks, as they were all returning to roost from an active day out fishing.