Bonanza Bay, Isla Espiritu Santo and Los Islotes

On a ship you sleep through the calmer times and wake during the lumps in the road - so it was last night. The Captain anchored in the morning in the calm of Bonanza Bay on the lee side of Isla Espiritu Santo. Tiny wavelets pushed foam up the beach in crescent patterns as the Zodiacs landed. It was our beach. There were no footprints or signs of other people. The swath of sand stretched in a broad arc for over a mile. No one was here or had been for a long time.

Hikers set off up a small granitic arroyo or followed a circuitous route across a broad flat area and up a ridge. The arroyo led us along a sandy path that passed cardon, organ pipe, galloping, and cholla cacti. We wound around desert trees, past mariola and rama parda in flower - vegetation that let the desert’s beauty pour into us.

Many wanted to try out their snorkeling equipment from a sandy beach. There was a tolerable surge with stable footing. Carlos, our Undersea Specialist helped everyone feel confident with their snorkel gear and readied them for underwater adventures.

During lunch the ship passed volcanic rocks that make up much of this part of Mexico. Black, brick-colored and beige layers of tuff were cut through by faults that had eroded back into the island. A sandy beach lay at the back of each cove. At the end of this series of inlets we arrived at a small island composed of reddish volcanic tuffs that seemed to stick out of the sea like hands, one like a fist and the other with its fingers extended. Here we spent our afternoon.

California sea lions were draped over the rocks in deep sleep. They may feed for days at a time, so rest is not from idle laziness but necessity. It only looks like they’re slackers, and how well they can portray that misnomer splayed out in envious comfort. Most of the pups are about 6 months old, born in early July. These pups, along with subadults, are curious and love to play. They are so graceful and adept in the water that they can swim directly at your mask, spin on their long axis, open their mouths as if to bite and veer off barely missing you. Those on Zodiac tours could tell when something like that happened. Nearby snorkelers would pop to the surface and suddenly erupt into laughter.

The island also had numerous birds. Brown boobies stood on tiny ledges looking down on Zodiacs as we looked up at them. Blue-footed boobies stood around on the flat tops of rocks. Courtship had not started in earnest, but the blue feet were still conspicuous as you can see in today’s photograph.

When the day drew to a close we headed north, first encountering a bouncy ride, but soon passing into the protection of Isla San Jose for dinner.