Santa Cruz Island
The day dawned clear—we could see the top of the island. This is the warm, wet season, so this was an auspicious beginning to the day! And sure enough, the day was bright throughout, and the focus of our visit, the giant tortoises, were out and about. Lonesome George was moving around for all to see; Diego the superstud as well; the little hatchlings were ambling in their corrals…so all was well in the world of giants. The Galápagos National Park has been raising tortoises in captivity for decades now, with the expert advice from researchers and scientist of the Charles Darwin Research Station. To think that less than 50 years ago these unique beings were on the verge of disappearing forever, but now are increasing their population instead. This is due to the unfailing passion of many people, from experts in herpetology to experts in eradicating introduced species, both in the Park and the Station.
Town of course, was another world unto its own. “The most expensive mile” in Galápagos was one introduction from a colleague years ago, and refers to the numerous shops along the main road. But people-watching is also a sport, and delightfully entertaining.
Late morning, after all the money had been spent and the heat was getting heavy, we head up into the highlands to cool off a bit, to stop briefly for a taste of hooch and local coffee, then to continue onto the restaurant which has a magnificent view down the flanks of this old volcanic island and over to the islands of Pinzon (Duncan), Isabela (Albermarle) and my favorite name, “Sin Nombre” (Nameless).
Some chose to cross through a long lava tube before lunch, others went straight for the beer before lunch. Whatever the choice, we were ready to continue the adventure afterwards by returning once more to the buses and driving to a ranch owned by a local. Deep inside his property, the giant tortoises of the race living on this island, wandered freely, grazing, sleeping, breathing, drinking, wallowing, lumbering as they have for eons.
Back on board—coolness, air-conditioning (yea!), refreshing juice, oatmeal cookies, shower! Music ended the day, with a talented group of local professionals from town…what a treat!
