Yankee Harbor, 12/17/2024, National Geographic Explorer
Aboard the
National Geographic Explorer
Antarctica
Despite the wind and the swells, our first landing in Yankee Harbor was absolutely fantastic. We saw the gentoo penguin colony, whalers’ and sealers’ artifacts, and at least 15 elephant seals fighting and having their well-deserved naps.
We spent the afternoon cruising on board National Geographic Explorer, admiring Edinburgh Hill and learning from our naturalists about the wonders of the Antarctic Continent.
Maria Intxaustegi is an internationally awarded maritime archaeologist, naval historian, commercial diver, professional offshore sailor, and expedition guide from the Basque Country.
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This morning, we awoke to fantastic Antarctic conditions, kicking our trip off with a bang. We began the day at Portal Point, our first landing on the Antarctic Continent and for many, this was the seventh and final to be checked off the list. A great achievement! While ashore, we had the option to hike to the top of a nearby bluff or simply watch the passing humpback whales and gentoo penguins cruise by. After a hearty lunch, we arrived at Hunt Island where we offered a Zodiac cruise. Here, we were rewarded with many great sights, including more whales, Weddell seals, and calving glaciers. The hotel team also offered a surprise for us in the form of hot chocolates served right on the water! This treat could be taken straight or spiced up with some spirits. Once back on board, we received our official welcome from the captain and were also formally introduced to the expedition team. It was a fantastic first day.
This morning, we awoke to the sheltered waters and towering cliffs of Neptune’s Bellows, a small opening in the natural harbor of Deception Island. After a scenic cruise and a hearty breakfast, we boarded the Zodiacs bound for the enticing volcanic black sands. Once ashore, we were immediately greeted by patrolling chinstrap penguins and the looming structure of past whaling events. The rusting and somewhat eerie infrastructure is a reminder of the darker days in Antarctic history. We split into different groups depending on the difficulty of walk desired. Those who opted for the longer option were rewarded with fantastic panoramic views. The others enjoyed strolling between the surrounding buildings and numerous whale bones. After another fantastic lunch aboard, we departed once more, bound for Telefon Bay. This was another challenging walk and offered fantastic views in 360 degrees. An excursion well enjoyed by all. Sadly, once back onboard it was time to enjoy our final evening cocktails, watch the guest slideshow, and receive a final farewell from our captain.
The phrase, “Red sky at night, sailors delight…” was an accurate forecast for today (sunset last night at Lemaire Channel was stunning). With calm, sunny, high wispy clouds, and cragged peaks emerging from thick blankets of highly sculptured and absolutely white snow, Paradise Bay was indeed a paradise. After breakfast, we kayaked among growlers, bergy bits, and small icebergs, enjoying the stunning vistas and observing the ubiquitous gentoo penguins and several Weddell seals lounging on ice floes. Just before lunch, some of us participated in the time-honored tradition of the Polar Plunge and received a coveted patch attesting to getting really cold and wet. During lunch, we sailed to Danco Island for hikes around the gentoo colony and Zodiac tours through the ice fields. The penguins provided endless amusement as they constantly stole rocks from each other’s nests. A few eggshells were observed, suggesting that at least a few Gentoos had laid eggs, but lost them to the ever-watchful skuas. While the hikers were on shore and the Zodiacs were cruising, six humpback whales spent the afternoon circling National Geographic Explorer, presumably feeding. The blows were close and loud, and at least one mom-calf pair was sighted. It was a spectacular day!
