After a couple of days at sea, the sheltered and forest-lined shores of Paterson Inlet made for a dramatic change of scenery this morning. The winds were slack, making our Zodiac rides ashore all the more pleasant. The pest-free Isle of Ulva provided a cacophony of native bird song and the temperate rainforest plants and lichens made for a kaleidoscope of reds (rata flower), greens (ferns) and yellows (lichens).