The first stop we made on our journey through Southeast Alaska was in Tracy Arm where we first went to see the North Sawyer Glacier from the comforts of National Geographic Quest. Majestic waterfalls all around us surely made for the start of an amazing morning and first day of the trip. We then went for Zodiac cruises up to the South Sawyer Glacier. Weaving our way in and out of beautiful ice sculptures in order to get to the face of the glacier and enjoying the sounds of the ice popping and the Harbor seals relaxing on ice flows, we enjoyed an amazing morning watching the calving of the glacier and all the thundering sounds it makes. Afterwards, we cruised out of the fjord and watched as whales spout and bears scavenged the shoreline for mussels and barnacles.
9/9/2023
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National Geographic Quest
Ushk Bay
Morning fog swallowed the Southeast Alaskan wilderness. As we cruised into Ushk Bay, anticipation seized the vessel. This morning’s hikes and Zodiac cruises were to be our final operations of the trip; every last one of us was eager to be ensconced in the wonders of the Tongass once again. Following a delicious breakfast — prepared by head chef Paul Cotta and his dedicated team — we set out for shore. Through a light rain we cruised on Zodiacs toward our landing, scattering bald eagles and common mergansers that had congregated along the shore. Ushk Bay’s annual salmon run was nearing its conclusion —and we could smell it. The shoreline was littered with rotting carcasses of pink and chum salmon, many of which were picked apart by corvids, gulls, and bears. Whether or not any of these individuals survived long enough to spawn is a mystery, but there is one certainty amidst this carnage — their sacrifice is not in vain. Their carcasses will enrich this place, injecting the forest with nutrients from the sea. Our last afternoon was spent cruising toward our anchorage near Sitka. The final day of a Lindblad Expeditions cruise is always a hard day. We have all forged new bonds in the fires of wilderness. Every one of us has found ourselves challenged and rewarded, humbled and humored, inspired and inspirational throughout this week. Our new bonds will, thanks to modern technology, be preserved in photographs and videos. Many will be carried on through photos and emails, but this group will never be reconstituted. Though it’s hard to say goodbye, the impermanence of this troupe makes the experience all the more poignant. These adventurers will surely be missed.
