The guests and crew of National Geographic Quest experienced an incredible day. We woke up surrounded by Yosemite-like landscapes in Tracy Arm, within the Terror Wilderness. Huge ice-covered rock faces towered overhead, teal blue waters sparkled below, and unlimited possibilities filled our guests’ imaginations. The sunny blue skies made the ice dance before us. What a surprise! We zoomed over to South Sawyer Glacier, where we saw numerous harbor seal moms with their new pups, a harbor porpoise, and too many cascades to count. After an unbelievable morning, we cruised out of the fjord to a place called the Hole in the Wall, a gorgeous waterfall with a hole right in the middle. We gathered around the bow and listened to our on-board geologist discuss what might have created this hole. We watched a coastal brown bear move through the grass before ending our night by eating dinner with the company of humpback whales.
National Geographic Quest
Morning fog swallowed the Southeast Alaskan wilderness. As we cruised into Ushk Bay, anticipation seized the vessel. This morning’s hikes and Zodiac cruises were to be our final operations of the trip; every last one of us was eager to be ensconced in the wonders of the Tongass once again. Following a delicious breakfast — prepared by head chef Paul Cotta and his dedicated team — we set out for shore. Through a light rain we cruised on Zodiacs toward our landing, scattering bald eagles and common mergansers that had congregated along the shore. Ushk Bay’s annual salmon run was nearing its conclusion —and we could smell it. The shoreline was littered with rotting carcasses of pink and chum salmon, many of which were picked apart by corvids, gulls, and bears. Whether or not any of these individuals survived long enough to spawn is a mystery, but there is one certainty amidst this carnage — their sacrifice is not in vain. Their carcasses will enrich this place, injecting the forest with nutrients from the sea. Our last afternoon was spent cruising toward our anchorage near Sitka. The final day of a Lindblad Expeditions cruise is always a hard day. We have all forged new bonds in the fires of wilderness. Every one of us has found ourselves challenged and rewarded, humbled and humored, inspired and inspirational throughout this week. Our new bonds will, thanks to modern technology, be preserved in photographs and videos. Many will be carried on through photos and emails, but this group will never be reconstituted. Though it’s hard to say goodbye, the impermanence of this troupe makes the experience all the more poignant. These adventurers will surely be missed.