Tracy Arm and South Sawyer Glacier, 5/31/2019, National Geographic Quest
Aboard the
National Geographic Quest
Alaska
A dramatic conclusion to a week-long epic in Southeast Alaska came today when National Geographic Quest visited Tracy Arm and South Sawyer Glacier. One of the most active tide water glaciers in the United States, South Sawyer is an incredibly impressive sight. Being in the immediate presence of this glacier over extended zodiac rides and learning of its history and functioning through glaciology lectures put on by our staff were both immensely moving experiences.
Afterwards we cruise out of the fjord and watched as whales spouted and bears scavenged the shore for morsels. The evening wrapped up with a guest slideshow and Wildlife Jeopardy.
James is a home-grown, free-range Pacific Northwest outdoorsmen. Born in Seattle and reared nearby on Vashon Island, he grew up in and surrounded by the Salish Sea. James has saltwater in his veins, but would be quick to point out we all do, echoing ...
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Morning fog swallowed the Southeast Alaskan wilderness. As we cruised into Ushk Bay, anticipation seized the vessel. This morning’s hikes and Zodiac cruises were to be our final operations of the trip; every last one of us was eager to be ensconced in the wonders of the Tongass once again. Following a delicious breakfast — prepared by head chef Paul Cotta and his dedicated team — we set out for shore. Through a light rain we cruised on Zodiacs toward our landing, scattering bald eagles and common mergansers that had congregated along the shore. Ushk Bay’s annual salmon run was nearing its conclusion —and we could smell it. The shoreline was littered with rotting carcasses of pink and chum salmon, many of which were picked apart by corvids, gulls, and bears. Whether or not any of these individuals survived long enough to spawn is a mystery, but there is one certainty amidst this carnage — their sacrifice is not in vain. Their carcasses will enrich this place, injecting the forest with nutrients from the sea. Our last afternoon was spent cruising toward our anchorage near Sitka. The final day of a Lindblad Expeditions cruise is always a hard day. We have all forged new bonds in the fires of wilderness. Every one of us has found ourselves challenged and rewarded, humbled and humored, inspired and inspirational throughout this week. Our new bonds will, thanks to modern technology, be preserved in photographs and videos. Many will be carried on through photos and emails, but this group will never be reconstituted. Though it’s hard to say goodbye, the impermanence of this troupe makes the experience all the more poignant. These adventurers will surely be missed.
This morning we enjoyed our coffees and teas in front of the awe-inspiring Johns Hopkins Glacier, deep inside Glacier Bay National Park. Flocks of black-legged kittiwakes swarmed the glacier's face, perusing the churned nutrients of the glacial freshwater runoff. Harbor seals lounged in the morning light, seemingly unbothered by the intermittent outbursts of the glacier. The booming sounds of the glacier were dubbed “White Thunder” by the local Huna Tlingit tribe, whose original settlements were located near the present-day equivalent of the park’s entrance. After lovely glacial views, we all enjoyed brunch aboard as we moved southward down the park in search of wildlife. Sailing through Russell Cut and around to Gloomy Knob, we observed such species as bear, wolf, killer whale, humpback, bald eagle, harbor seal, mountain goat, common merganser, harlequin duck, surf scoter, and American crow —oh my! A truly once-in-a-wildlife-time experience; the quintessential Alaska experience! For the afternoon we headed to South Marble Island, where we had amazing views of hauled out sea lions, sea otters, tufted puffins, a horned puffin, common murres, and marbled murrelets. The bow was certainly at capacity with all guests eager to get views of the action. After South Marble Island we transitioned toward Bartlett Cove, home to the park headquarters. We led a variety of walks in the area for all to enjoy after a lovely day of cruising the bay.
After a few lucky days of sunshine, we awoke to a scene of drama with gentle rocking from the swell as we turned the bow of National Geographic Quest into our anchorage at the Inian Islands. This morning was one that will remain in our memories for a long time to come. Loading into the Zodiacs, we crested on the slow rolling waves, feeling the true power of the ocean. Bird Rock came into view, and we marveled at the acrobatics and sheer size of the Steller sea lions. These giants, with the largest males reaching 2,000 pounds, looked upon us with curiosity. They swam near the Zodiacs and gazed at us with the same intensity we were giving them. The morning didn’t end there. We were graced by sea otters lounging in the kelp and a variety of seabirds, including rhinoceros auklets and double-crested cormorants. After a full morning experiencing the wild wonders that Alaska has to offer, we transited a short distance to George Island. It was time to explore another promising location! We experienced it all by land and water. Some of us started out kayaking, getting an up-close view of the kelp and jellies that live just below the water, while others investigated the fungi and moss along the trails of the island. We all convened at the beach, and those bold enough stripped down and took the polar plunge. Cheers erupted as our brave plungers truly experienced the ocean that has been guiding us along this trip.
