Early this morning the National Geographic Orion came alongside in the small town of Kumai. As the sun rose breakfast was already underway on the aft deck and we fortified ourselves for a big day of exploration. We boarded the Zodiacs and then made our way to the Sekonyer River, and it wasn’t long before we encountered our first primates. Long-tailed macaques were found feeding along the sides of the river, in small troops, and we were able to get the Zodiacs nice and close for great views and photographic opportunities. Further up the river as the nipa palms gradually gave way to more diverse forest our first encounters with proboscis monkeys began. Small troops feeding in the tall trees lining the river gave excellent opportunities to view these wonderful monkeys, and generally there were several males with their large noses and pot-bellies looking out over the troop.
We continued our adventure up the river, with the river gradually narrowing, and then came to our first stop at Pondok Tanggui. We disembarked the Zodiacs and then headed into the forest towards the feeding station where the local Orangutans would hopefully come in to take advantage of the bananas and fruits provided for them. We all gathered in front of the feeding platform and Dr. Galdikas discussed various aspects of the project as we waited with bated breath. And before long we were rewarded with a female orangutan and her small baby coming in to the platform and taking bananas. She spent time eating in the bushes close by, before coming back for more. Our first observation of these fantastic creatures.
Heading back to the river, we boarded local klotoks, small river boats with covered decks, and headed further up the river towards Camp Leakey. We spotted more proboscis monkeys and long-tailed macaques as we went, and some saw stork-billed kingfishers, black and red broadbill, and night-herons. Soon we got to a ‘black river’ where the water changed from the dirty coffee coloured water to a deep tannin-stained colour – a sign of the clean and clear water exiting from the National Park.
We disembarked the klotoks at Camp Leakey and walked ashore through the forest, firstly over a boardwalk and then through the rainforest to the OFI station. We gathered and then walked through to the feeding platform. As we arrived we realized there were several orangutans already close by and waiting, and as they laid out the fruit and called through the forest, these beautiful animals came down to spend time with us. Several males and females were close by, including the dominant male Tom. His massive stature and presence was really something that struck awe into us, such an amazing animal, it was such a privilege to be so close to him. Meanwhile one of the local gibbons swung from branch to branch, as if a mammalian missile, and came in to steal as many bananas as he could, before eating them in a relaxed fashion up in the trees above us. As he left, he gave a fantastic show, looping from branch to branch, far above the forest floor, like an Olympic gymnast.
Before we could realise it, it was time to leave, and we started back for the klotoks. Heading back downstream, we enjoyed the comfort of the small boats and the scenery. Halfway back to the ship we encountered Zodiacs from the ship that resupplied us with wine, beer and soft-drinks, as well as sushi, guacamole and other snacks…now this is the way to travel! As the sun became low in the sky, troops of proboscis monkeys were passed in the trees bordering the river, and we made it back to the ship just after sunset. Of course, despite the snacks, it was definitely time for dinner…and then definitely time for bed! A long but incredible day!
