This morning we sailed from the Iles des Saints to the beautiful island of St. Lucia. This tropical isle is approximately 200 square miles with a population of 175,000. What is quite extraordinary is that this small community has produced two Nobel Laureates (economics and literature) in the late 20th century and both of them went to the same local island schools—a testimony to the quality of the educational system.
The majestic pitons came into view as we sailed into Soufriere Bay. These two volcanic plugs have now been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site for exceptional natural beauty. Tom Heffernan gave a talk on the Creole Languages of the Caribbean before lunch and immediately after lunch we boarded tenders for the short cruise to the shore. We immediately boarded our small vans for the short ride to the to the interior of the caldera where the hot gasses, and molten waters and rock are still quite active. We viewed a brief video on the geology of this young island and then actually walked into caldera where we were able to see and smell—for the sulphric gases (hydrogen-sulfide) leave a strong smell in the air—for the very first time the seismic activity, which created these Lesser Antilles. All of the islands, which we will visit, are the product—with the single exception of Barbados—of volcanic activity. Romain was our very knowledgeable guide for the day was well versed in the geology and took us to an overlook where we could look into the face of the bubbling and sulphurus mud as it hissed and exploded. We stopped at an overlook of the bay and had an opportunity to get some great photos of the Sea Cloud as she floated majestically in the bay.
We then returned to our vans and went to the Diamond Botanical Gardens that were begun during the reign of King Louis XIV of France, the “Sun King.” The flowers grow in such profusion everywhere, heliconnias of every color and multi-colored bamboo that grows a foot a day, in short a lushness, which is hard to describe but must be seen to be believed. Tom Heffernan then led us on a walking tour of the town of Soufriere (“sulphur in the air”) and explained the effect of the French Revolution on this small island, the slave revolt which took place on I January 1791, and the use of the guillotine to punish some of the high handed and brutal actions of the local plantocracy. Returning to the Sea Cloud our captain managed to bring the ship immediately below the spectacular Pitons. There aside from the magnificent views we enjoyed local St. Lucian beer and “pigs in the blanket” on the spanker deck.
Dinner tonight was a barbecue of a sucking pig and a massive fresh caught 20-kilo tuna, which was served sashimi style and grilled on the lido deck. Many of us made repeated trips to the barbecue table! The events of the day continued well into the night. After dinner we watched the fabulous Captain Irwin Johnson in his autobiographical documentary of his 1929 voyage called Around Cape Horn. If that was not enough our redoubtable crew presented their traditional sea shanty evening where we all got to sing along. I cannot imagine a more full day and we all went off to bed utterly satisfied.
