St. Jonsfjord and Poolepynten, 5/10/2025, National Geographic Resolution
Aboard the
National Geographic Resolution
Arctic
Today we woke up in St. Jonsfjord, one of the few places sheltered from the passing storm, allowing us to make a landing and explore. We had views of reindeer, our first rock ptarmigan, and pink-footed geese of the season. We also visited an old hunters’ hut from 1962.
In the afternoon, we landed at Poolepynten and were able to get within 40 meters of about 20 walruses hauled out on shore. We could see their breath in the cold air and when the wind changed slightly, we were treated to a pungent smell to compliment the view.
With an insatiable curiosity, Ezra has been drawn to travel the world and explore from a young age. Ezra pursued a degree in History from Colorado College, which only further piqued his interest to travel and see firsthand the places that he had read...
Arriving to Alkefjellet this morning, we weren’t too sure what to expect- would the Brünnich’s guillemots that call these cliffs home still be out at their wintering feeding grounds, or would some have returned to begin the courtship and nesting process of springtime? Our questions were quickly answered during our early morning approach, as the sky started to fill with tiny black snitches making their way too and from the cliffs. The undersea team took advantage of the opportunity to dive under the fertile cliffs, the marine life similarly aflutter with the influx of nutrients from above. But the real treat was heading out in Zodiacs to experience the sheer number of birds- estimated at more than 60,000 breeding pairs. The sky was abuzz, the water was abuzz, the cliffs were abuzz. It was hard to know where to focus! Luckily, we had plenty of time on the water to take it all in before checking in with the cocoa boat for a warm tipple to help us recover. This afternoon we turned and set sail northbound, hoping to find more four-legged friends on the ice. All eyes on deck, scouting the horizon, looking for that tell-tale sign of a yellowish blur that hopefully moves, bringing confidence that we have indeed encountered the king of the north, the polar bear.
It is a rare thing indeed to find a place to land where only ONE person on the expedition team has been before. There can be very few of these destinations in any polar region, such is the breadth of experience we have on board, and yet we accomplished this today. A stiff breeze following National Geographic Resolution chilled early risers as we traversed the north coast of Spitsbergen Island towards the east. Our destination was an island – well more accurately a shingle bank called Moffen – which is a nature reserve. Timing is significant when visiting the islands of Svalbard, especially in the nature reserves, which are closed between May 15th and September 1st. An early scout in our Zodiacs took the rifle team out to look for a landing. Ice everywhere, including brash ice and old chunks of pack ice resembling piles of Legos. There was a small piece of shore upon which we could land our Zodiacs. Immediately a plan was made, and people came ashore. The ice returned, and we retreated until after lunch, and then, lo and behold, we were able to land everyone from the ship onto this little piece of nowhere. At 80 degrees north, there is nothing between Moffen and the North Pole apart from ice and water. What a remarkable Mother’s Day!
