Located east of Isabela Island, Santiago Island is one of the largest of the archipelago, with highlands and freshwater, but with no human inhabitants. Although there were many attempts to colonize the island, in the 1960’s the Ecuadorian government decided to declare the whole island part of the National Park, beginning an ambitious conservation project to eradicate introduced animals that were brought by pirates and buccaneers a long time ago and to recover the diminished population of giant tortoises. Santiago was the most visited island by Charles Darwin, who set foot here in 1835 and was able to see the incredible uniqueness of life that inspired him to publish his writings.
After we visited the youngest islands and after a long navigation, we finally returned to the central part of the archipelago. Early in the morning we headed out in Zodiacs to Espumilla Beach. With cold winds and a soft rain we landed on this greenish beach, one of the largest nesting areas for the Pacific green sea turtle. On the top of the beach a wall of black and button mangroves protected the shore with their imposing trunks while in the air blue footed boobies and several Galapagos hawks welcomed us as we walked on the soft and wet terrain. Gaining some altitude from the coast we found massive Palo Santo trees and were treated to the strong fragrance that emulates from the resin of the trees. The view from the top was magnificent, making it possible to observe the gigantic volcanoes of Isabela and at the foothill, a greenish lagoon contrasted with the blue ocean behind.
After breakfast we headed out to Buccaneer’s Cove to explore the undersea world. We enjoyed its realms, swimming with curious Galapagos fur sea lions. In the deepest part, white-tipped reef sharks, rays, and schools of surgeon fish were the delight of our guests. The coast is a mix of volcanic contrasts as we searched from the Zodiacs to find Nazca boobies, brown noddy terns, and pelicans feeding in the shallows.
This afternoon the National Geographic Islander was repositioned to Puerto Egas or James Bay, a place where a small human population operated a salt “mine” from an extinct crater. Nowadays it is still possible to observe the last remains, minute evidence of a settlement that aimed to be another populated town such as Puerto Ayora. Exploration started along the coast where we walk along the intertidal zone. Lava tubes that formed, emptying out into the ocean, have had part of their rooftops collapse, leaving bridges for us to walk upon and forming a perfect habitat for one of the largest colonies of fur sea lions. Walking along the rocky terrain we observed many species of seashore birds, such as American oystercatchers picking in the tidal pools looking for sea urchins and crustaceans. Semi palmated plovers and ruddy turnstones fluttered along the small ponds of water catching some crabs and small fish. Yellow warblers flitted back and forth catching small insects and marine iguanas started to huddle, trying to retain heat until the morning light. The sun dipped over Isabela Island in the distance and told us that this day was almost over. We headed our Zodiacs back to the National Geographic Islander as we thought about the amazing experiences of this beautiful day in this unique paradise.
