As National Geographic Sea Lion approached the narrow entrance of Red Bluff Bay, the reason for the inlet’s name became obvious as we looked at the unusual rusty-red colored mound of rock. Low wisps of mist clung to steep, green hillsides on the opposite shore. We sighted a brown bear in a tiny meadow by the shore, and quietly watched. Several waterfalls cascaded down hills, and our ship paused near one of them. As we continued further up bay, the inlet didn’t appear wide enough for the ship. But the bay widened, and snow-covered peaks became visible as clouds blew away. During our breakfast, a tiny humpback whale calf was seen swimming close to the shoreline with its mother.
We headed north in Chatham Strait, and whale researcher Andy Szabo drove out in his small boat to come aboard for a visit. He gave a wonderful talk about humpback whales of Southeast Alaska, and their unusual cooperative feeding techniques. The ship pulled in near Kasnyku waterfall, then Andy departed in his small skiff.
We spent the afternoon exploring the South Arm of Kelp Bay. At the head of the bay there are mountains covered in snow, and a river running through an enormous meadow. We set out in small groups to explore this vast and wild area; kayakers had some close views of harbor seals. Hikers walked in the vast meadow, pausing frequently to take close looks or photographs of the countless wildflowers. There were magenta and yellow shootingstars, buttercups, and chocolate lilies. Blue lupines were just starting to open, as were blue geraniums, and pink salmonberry flowers. It was just stunning, with the backdrop of snow-capped mountains. The stream was rushing with snowmelt, and enormous, dead, gray trees lay in the middle of it. A kingfisher flew down the length of the stream, and swallows darted over it, catching insects.
We explored the forest, where we found many bear trails criss-crossing through the lower shrubby growth. We also saw large bear tracks on shore near our landing site. This is wilderness! We are merely visitors where these wild brown bears live, and it is a great feeling. When we got back aboard, a sharp-eyed guest noticed two brown bears on a different section of the shoreline, and we watched.
