Slowly making our way into the harbor of Petersburg, we saw many birds flying around us, familiar one such as bald eagles and great blue heron and some that are new to us this week such as the Bonaparte gull and mew gull. The tide was low, exposing the shore and the many homes on stilts doting the coastline were sitting high and dry. A true Southeast Alaskan day, we had low cloud coverage and intermitted rain showers, making the town feel even more charming. Hikes across the waterway through the muskeg introduced us to this unique bog ecosystem and including the smallest carnivores’ plant, the sundew. Others explored the perimeter of town on a fantastic led bike ride, before joining a zodiac for a cruise through the fishing port exploring the heart of Petersburg; after all, it is “the town that fish built.”
9/9/2023
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National Geographic Quest
Ushk Bay
Morning fog swallowed the Southeast Alaskan wilderness. As we cruised into Ushk Bay, anticipation seized the vessel. This morning’s hikes and Zodiac cruises were to be our final operations of the trip; every last one of us was eager to be ensconced in the wonders of the Tongass once again. Following a delicious breakfast — prepared by head chef Paul Cotta and his dedicated team — we set out for shore. Through a light rain we cruised on Zodiacs toward our landing, scattering bald eagles and common mergansers that had congregated along the shore. Ushk Bay’s annual salmon run was nearing its conclusion —and we could smell it. The shoreline was littered with rotting carcasses of pink and chum salmon, many of which were picked apart by corvids, gulls, and bears. Whether or not any of these individuals survived long enough to spawn is a mystery, but there is one certainty amidst this carnage — their sacrifice is not in vain. Their carcasses will enrich this place, injecting the forest with nutrients from the sea. Our last afternoon was spent cruising toward our anchorage near Sitka. The final day of a Lindblad Expeditions cruise is always a hard day. We have all forged new bonds in the fires of wilderness. Every one of us has found ourselves challenged and rewarded, humbled and humored, inspired and inspirational throughout this week. Our new bonds will, thanks to modern technology, be preserved in photographs and videos. Many will be carried on through photos and emails, but this group will never be reconstituted. Though it’s hard to say goodbye, the impermanence of this troupe makes the experience all the more poignant. These adventurers will surely be missed.
