Immediately after breakfast, we set out on hikes from the shore of Palanderbukta (Palander Bay) on Northern Hinlopen Strait. During the 4.8-mile “long hike” we saw black-legged kittiwakes soaring overhead. With miniature Arctic desert plants at our feet, we enjoyed the assortment of rugged terrain. Among the purple saxifrage there were blooming Svalbard poppies, the archipelago’s “national” flower.
Our group was surprised to find bowhead whale bones 70 meters above sea level. We learned from our naturalists that this is due to isostatic rebound; the dramatic process of land rising after the weight of glacial ice is lifted.
In the afternoon narwhals were spotted travelling alongside the ship. Soon after, we enjoyed close views of a bearded seal on an ice floe. The much anticipated sighting of the first walrus led to much excitement on multiple decks. The only sounds that could be heard were National Geographic Explorer’s bow breaking the ice and the clicks of cameras.
Dinner was pushed back due to the sighting of two large polar bears. It was the best bear sighting of the trip thus far, due to the seldom seen social interaction of submission and dominance. As we crept closer, we were given an engaging show by the defeated bear. It rolled around in the snow, walked toward the ship, and appeared to contemplate its next approach in the direction of the kill.
Around 10 p.m., under bright skies, we headed northwest to Moffen Island to witness the thigmotactic behavior of walruses. We had to stay at least 300 meters from the amorous heap because of the law passed in 1952 to protect this once over-hunted pinniped. Most of the walruses were sleeping amongst the sharp tusks of their one-ton neighbors. We watched as they occasionally scratched itches, jockeyed for prime spots, and rolled onto their sides. A few active walruses that had been swimming hauled out and made their way towards the group.
The day's sights even inpired nine-year-old guest Anna Kleewein to pen a poem called, "Polar Bears":
Polar bears eat seals.
They think it’s a yummy snack.
The seals are afraid.
