Winds blowing, waves pounding, and northern fulmars flying everywhere; it was a wet and wild day that brought National Geographic Endurance to Nuuk, the capital city and main population hub of Greenland.
After nearly a full day at sea following our departure from South Greenland, we docked for several hours and took time to explore Nuuk’s museums, cafes, and artisan shops. Presentations on Greenlandic politics, Inuit culture, and Inuit short films by one of our guest speakers and our cultural specialist rounded out the day as the ship again set off for more expedition adventures up north.
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On our last expedition landing of the voyage, guests had the chance to visit Sydbay, the former site of the community of Sisimiut. Here we were able to see how this island has been continually inhabited since time immemorial. We viewed the remains of early Dorset housing, Thule tent rings, and sod houses standing alongside a modern Inuit seasonal fishing and harvesting cabin. It was not difficult to see what attracted people to this location for such a long time, as the landscape and seascape teams with a bounty of natural resources and traditional foods. Throughout our journey across Kalaallit Nunaat (the Indigenous name for Greenland) we were able to see the seasons begin to change. Even though we are just barely entering into late August, hints of autumnal colors, from browns and golds, to vibrant reds and majestic deep purples began to spread across the tundra. The beauty of the season made the island’s inhabitants, a colony of snow-white Arctic hares, stand out against the autumnal backdrop and black lichen covered rocks. A fine mist carried by ocean winds transformed this vibrant landscape into dreamy, muted colors that will stick with our guests long after our voyage is over.
Today marked the northernmost point we’d travel on our voyage, 70°41’N. We spent the morning visiting Uummanaq, a town on an island with the most beautiful mountain that gives Uummannaq its name. In the afternoon, we visited the archaeological site, Qilakitsoq, where in 1972, eight naturally preserved Thule mummies were found by ptarmigan hunters. The mummies have since been removed, but the site is still accessible.
This morning we visited Appat Island located within Disko Bay. Appat Island is home to a former whaling station and trading post named Ritenbenck. It was founded in 1755 and was abandoned in 1960. Among the ruins is Greenland’s oldest stone building. The island itself is quite small and provides some easy hiking. Great views of icebergs and a chance to explore the station ruins were the highlights of our visit. In the afternoon we took a Zodiac cruise inside a spectacular fjord that is too narrow for the ship to navigate. Some late nesting black-legged kittiwake gulls were still on a few cliffs, and the waters had lots of bergy bits and icebergs to delight our guests. The hotel team surprised us by serving hot cocoa from a Zodiac stationed out in the fjord!
