Anticipation was palpable this morning as we looked out the window: our bow faced a bay filled with fast ice. After breakfast, we went out on deck to witness a small display of the ice-breaking prowess of National Geographic Resolution. Then, with the ship surrounded by ice, our crew set out the gangway, and we were able to walk from our vessel straight onto frozen ocean. The world class entertainment extended into the afternoon when we visited Pourquoi Pas Island, named for the vessel of the second expedition of Frenchman Jean-Baptiste Charcot. With an increasing chill in the air, a sky transitioning to low and thick clouds, and rapidly changing ice conditions near shore, we could finally appreciate that the Antarctic Peninsula is not always sunshine and barbecue weather. This did not deter us. We bundled up and spent hours delighting in Adelie penguins and their young, fluffy chicks. Today was a well-rounded day of Antarctic adventure bookended by fabulous meals!
National Geographic Explorer
We headed into the infamous Drake Passage last night after five days in Antarctica, so today's slightly later wakeup call and breakfast were a welcomed change of pace. A day at sea, however, does not mean fewer opportunities for wildlife spotting! Large numbers of seabirds flew all around the ship, such as southern giant petrels, Antarctic prions, and Cape petrels. We observed several light-mantled albatrosses, considered by some to be the most beautiful of that spectacular family of birds. In the early afternoon, several of the less commonly seen Antarctic petrels joined the fray, distinguishable from the artistically patterned Cape petrels (known also by their Spanish name 'pintado,' meaning painted) by their more orderly black and white plumage. While sea days spent heading back north from Antarctica provide time for reflection and processing of our experiences over the last few days, the lecture and enrichment program also continues. In the morning, Undersea Specialist Emmett Clarkin spoke about the ocean currents that keep Antarctica cold and insulate it from the rest of the planet, while Naturalist Elise Lockton gave a long-anticipated account of Sir Ernest Shackleton's famous Imperial Transantarctic Expedition. Finally, Naturalist Maria Intxaustegi presented some of her experiences working as a marine archaeologist. After a hearty dinner of Japanese okonomiyaki, we gathered once more in the lounge for a showing of the documentary Around Cape Horn, in which Captain Irving Johnson recalls his time sailing aboard the bark Peking from Europe around Cape Horn to Santiago. This film puts the historic significance of our spectacular ocean crossing into fitting perspective, especially as we hope to catch a glimpse of the famous lighthouse and monument at Cape Horn tomorrow morning.