Morning fog is common here in Magdalena Bay. Our deck dripped with the condensation, and I thought of the coyotes on the nearby island, licking plant leaves to get part of their daily hydration. There is a stark beauty in this rugged ecosystem of the Baja California desert.

We spend the day in the norther shallow areas of Magdalena Bay, whale-watching with seasoned pangeros, Mexican captains who have been boating with these whales almost all their lives. Our captain, Gustavo, began at 11 years old, fishing with his father. He is now 25. This enclosed area provides protection from predators for mother and calf pairs. We enjoy our encounters with them, each surfacing is an awe-inspiring event due to their massive size yet close proximity. The sound of their spouting causes us to turn our heads in their direction. The sun glistens off their smooth mosaic skin. 

After lunch we return to the whales scattering our attention amongst the many spouts seen.  A mother/calf pair visits our boat, and we feel lucky to be in their presence. We return to the ship under an orange sunset to our final evening together beneath the desert sky.