After casting off from the dock in Sitka and traveling overnight through Peril Strait, we awakened aboard the National Geographic Sea Bird in Chatham Strait to gray skies and drizzle. We tucked into Kelp Bay, a beautiful scenic area along the northeast corner of Baranof Island. After light exercise and breakfast, introductions and safety briefings, the naturalists called us out on deck to see a humpback whale. People grabbed jackets, binoculars, and cameras and poured out onto the decks for looks at this magnificent creature feeding very near the ship. Fog rose up from the water and clung to the trees along the coastline, the water was calm, and we were treated to a typical Southeast Alaskan morning of light rain and whale watching/waiting. The explosive “Pffftt” of the outbreath, the gentle glide of the humped back, and after several breaths, the graceful arch of the back to reveal the tail fluke—were mesmerizing.
As the ship moved on towards our afternoon destination, we gathered in the lounge for an introductory photography and break-out session with cameras. In the early afternoon, the PA crackled with the announcement: “You may want to come out on deck. We’ve spotted some killer whales.” Yes! Of course! We traveled along with these amazing cetaceans for a while… a big male, another smaller male, and several females on all sides of the ship. As we parted ways with these ‘black and whites’ another humpback whale appeared on the scene.
Though a bit late, we were determined to get our seafaring legs on land. In the mid-afternoon we anchored at Pavlof Harbor, a small bay cut deep into Chichagof Island. Here the crew lowered expedition landing craft and kayaks, and we made our way to shore. Naturalists led introductory walks along the shoreline to a salmon river. Moderate walks continued further up alongside a waterfall and inside the inner edge of this beautiful temperate rain forest along well-worn bear trails. Longer walkers made their way through shoulder-high grassy boggy areas along a lake and bushwhacked through less-worn bear trails to have a silent few moments along a grassy embankment overlooking the lake. Magical! Afterwards kayakers and expedition landing craft cruisers made their way up to the waterfall and—wow!—got looks at a brown bear in search of some early salmon.
What a day. Humpback whales and killer whales and brown bear, oh my! And beaver dam and eagles and ravens and Sitka spruce and western hemlock and devil’s club and skunk cabbage and all manner of flowers and blueberries! Whew. At this writing we are having a sumptuous meal, and afterwards our undersea specialist will show footage of his early morning dive in Kelp Bay. It’s hard to believe we’ve been on board for only 26 hours. What will tomorrow bring?
