After yesterday’s windy start to our South Georgia visit, it was delightful to awaken this morning to calm conditions in Hercules Bay. Exploring by Zodiac, we found riches of avian and pinniped wildlife, lush vegetation, and swirling kelp forests. Macaroni penguins clambered down steep hillsides from their tussock burrows to the sea. Light-mantled albatross soared overhead, and playful young fur seals filled the intertidal zone. Strikingly folded sedimentary rocks created a dramatic landscape.
The blustery and snowy afternoon was spent at Grytviken, one of six former shore-based whaling stations on the island. In the small cemetery, we honored the legacy and leadership of Sir Ernest Shackleton with a toast. Hikers climbed above the site for a view over the bay, while others enjoyed walking tours with a historian from the South Georgia Heritage Trust to learn about station infrastructure and daily life. The whaling and sealing past of this region provide a tangible reminder that modern conservation efforts are critical to the Southern Ocean’s ecological future.