Grytviken and St. Andrews Bay, 11/8/2023, National Geographic Endurance
Aboard the
National Geographic Endurance
Antarctica
The ship awoke as we navigated along the north coast of South Georgia towards Grytviken. As the fog lifted, it unveiled 10-15 humpbacks feeding close to shore. Once at our anchorage, we were treated to a briefing by members of the South Georgia Heritage Trust before we were let loose to explore the historic whaling station.
After repositioning further south beyond some huge icebergs, we spent the afternoon Zodiac cruising to observe the largest king penguin and elephant seal colony in St. Andrews Bay.
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Stiff winds carry us towards mainland South America. Hundreds of shearwaters and albatross take advantage of the breeze and swirl around us, showing off their aerial mastery. Despite the seas, National Geographic Resolution slices effortlessly towards the Beagle Channel. Soon after we raise Argentina to our starboard, the ocean begins to subside, allowing us to carry out our last programs and presentations aboard. As the afternoon progresses, we take in the incredible landscape we left a mere three-weeks ago. We’ve seen incredible places and things, and Tierra del Fuego only adds to that list. Filled with stories and memories, we wrap up our voyage with festivities aboard and reflect on the truly incredible experiences we’ve had together. Though our voyage was several weeks, we’ll be sharing it for the rest of our lives.
With determination and a pinch of sorcery, expedition leader Bud Lehnhausen somehow found some great weather where lousy weather was forecast. On a day when the possibility of any landing was uncertain, we managed two! New Island is on the very west edge of the Falklands Archipelago, and there are two harbors on the east side that offer great protection from the swells of the Southern Ocean. With sandy beaches and rolling hills, the island offers a great diversity of wildlife and scenery. Highlights of our two landings included gentoo penguins, Magellanic penguins, black-browed albatross, and a good variety of ducks, geese, and shore birds. Tonight, we head west across the Southern Ocean towards the Beagle Channel and Ushuaia.
Today turned out to be stunning, from beginning to end. It began with a gorgeous sunrise – the huge sky was lit up with resplendent reds, oranges, and yellows, giving way to blues and indigos. The seas calmed as we made our way to Saunders Island. The first part of the morning was spent walking from Port Egmont to the main settlement. Port Egmont was the first British settlement in the Falkland Islands. The British were unaware of the French settlement at Port Louis on East Falkland, which was founded the year before in 1764. At the main settlement, we were treated to demonstrations of sheepshearing, a working sheepdog, and wool sorting. After wandering around for a bit, we headed to the landing area for lunch. This was a special affair – a lamb barbecue with copious salad choices and, of course, complemented with drinks. In the afternoon, we landed on a vast, stunning beach and walked to observe colonies of black-browed albatrosses, rockhopper penguins, and blue-eyed shags. It was a sensational afternoon. Today gave us a much clearer idea of what life is like in the "camp."
