Grytviken and Salisbury Plain, 1/21/2022, National Geographic Endurance
Aboard the
National Geographic Endurance
Antarctica
Grytviken is the historic site where whaling began in the Southern Ocean in 1904. Situated in East Cumberland Bay, it was the perfect place for a station with protection from wind, plenty of fresh water and literally hundreds of whales in the bay. We went ashore this morning to get a glimpse into the lives of the men who hunted and processed whales. On a lighter note, the antics of local wildlife brightened our somber moods.
This afternoon we visited Salisbury Plain, the second largest king penguin colony on South Georgia. Literally hundreds of thousands of king penguins were present, each trying to produce a single chick and rear it to fledging. The cacophony of calls is as audibly overwhelming as is the sight (and smell) of so many penguins. Incredible!
Michael Nolan was born in Bitburg, Germany to an Air Force family stationed there. His first experience of the ocean came at age 12, when he learned to snorkel in the Italian Mediterranean. At age 17 he moved to Tucson, Arizona and became a PADI SCUB...
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>We spent the day exploring the entire coast of James Ross Island in the Weddell Sea. We had the full spectrum of Antarctic weather, from glassy calm to 70+kt winds to a beautiful sunset.
Our good ship National Geographic Resolution left Ushuaia on the 19th of January at 18:00 and proceeded eastward, exiting a very calm Beagle Channel by 23:00. We were followed by black-browed albatrosses, and some fortunate guests even spotted a small pod of Peale’s dolphins. During the night, we entered the Drake Passage. The morning call by Expedition Leader Sheri mentioned that the air temperature had dropped to 43°F, reminding us that we were sailing south towards the seventh continent: Antarctica. Fortunately, the winds remained fair with an average speed of 20 kn, and the cloud cover opened occasionally to reveal some bright sunrays over the waves. Today’s program started with the formal introduction of the Expedition Team, where everybody briefly summarized their expertise and life history. Later, John Francis, National Geographic Expert, told us about his research on pinnipeds. He also spoke about the history of the partnership between National Geographic and Lindblad, highlighting the common goals of the two organizations: research, conservation, and education. After lunch, seabird expert Bryan Holliday gave us a brilliant overview of the “Birds of Antarctica,” where he taught us about the identification of seabirds and the ecology of the species we have already spotted during the brief period since leaving port. He also spoke about the seabirds we are likely to observe during our voyage. One of the most important messages Bryan gave us is that we must be ready with binoculars, and we need to spend a lot of time on deck to fully enjoy these magnificent and hardy creatures. Shortly after this talk, we spotted giant petrels and a royal albatross behind the ship. Luca Bustamante’s brilliant overview of tips and tricks for taking beautiful pictures with a smartphone will surely be handy in the days to come, especially those seldom used functions like motion-pictures, AE-AF lock, and slow motion. To complete our day, and thanks to mild weather conditions, Captain Heidi Norling invited guests to a cocktail reception, where she welcomed everyone and introduced the ship and the officers. We finished the day with a delicious dinner while speedily advancing towards our first sighting of Antarctica.
The intrepid adventurers aboard National Geographic Explorer continued their journey across the Drake Passage under a grey sky and fair winds. As the ship approached the Antarctic peninsula, vigilant eyes were rewarded with brief sightings of minke whales and other charismatic wildlife. By midmorning, our explorers had their first sighting of land as the ship reached the South Shetland Islands. Traveling through the scenic channels of the South Shetland Islands, National Geographic Explorer found its way to Barrientos Island. Under favorable conditions, adventurers took part in their first outing of the expedition – a shore landing to observe the penguin colonies. On the island, explorers were delighted by the many gentoo and chinstrap penguins that inhabit the island. Additional appearances by skua, shearwaters, and cormorants added to the day. Not to be outdone by the birds, a marine mammal also made an appearance – the first Weddell seal of the voyage. As the winds picked up, the explorers returned to the ship where they were treated to a special Captain’s Cocktail Hour to welcome them to Antarctica. Finally, we are here.
