We departed the dock in Bartlett Cove in the wee hours of the morning, hoping to make headway north into the long, vast wilderness of Glacier Bay National Park. Our National Park Service Ranger Marylou Blakeslee and our Huna Cultural Interpreter Victoria Johnson joined us before departure and regaled our early-rising guests with a taste of things to come.
Our first highlight of the day came just after breakfast, at South Marble Island. This rounded, grayish rock is perfect habitat for birds of all kinds, but especially those who make their living on the sea. The water was especially flat and many birds were becalmed at the surface. We had fantastic looks at common murres, pelagic cormorants, and glaucous-winged gulls. A cliff-face covered in black-legged kittiwakes erupted in birds as a mature bald eagle swept by on the hunt for chicks and eggs. At the north end of the island, we were treated to both species of puffins, horned and tufted, as they floated on the water like black rubber duckies.
Tidal Inlet was our next destination, after a wonderful park introduction by Victoria and Marylou. Inside the narrow arm, there were hundreds of surf scoters in rafts, all around our ship. We intended to stop by Gloomy Knob, a large, gray, mountainous rock but were happily deterred by the discovery of a gray wolf on the beach! This particular wolf was turning over boulders and searching for edible delicacies underneath. Feeling lucky to be able to watch such an elusive animal, we continued toward Russell Cut, the passage inside of Russell Island. This beach proved to be even more productive than the last, as we witnessed a black wolf, chased by (and also in pursuit of!) gulls and Arctic terns. Undoubtedly the most impressive moment of the day came when the wolf abruptly turned and caught and killed a bird in flight. It was an incredible sight to see and a great example of the animal’s intelligence and speed.
After lunch, we arrived at Margerie and Grand Pacific Glaciers, the terminus of the bay itself. With cloudy skies we had diffuse light, causing Margerie to glow an aquamarine blue. The magnitude of the glaciers is a humbling sight and we drifted in the deep bay, enjoying watching its changing façade.
The afternoon brought more glaciers, with short visits to Lamplugh and Reid, followed by talk about the indigenous people of Glacier Bay, with Victoria. Our southward journey came to an end at Bartlett Cove, as we docked and went ashore for a short exploration of the forest here. Bartlett Cove has a lovely, quiet trail, which boasts beautiful groundcover and some freshwater ponds. We all needed to stretch our legs so this came as a welcome reprieve. We bid goodbye to Marylou and Victoria and prepared for our departure late this evening.
Stomachs full and bodies energized, we departed Glacier Bay National Park in the waning light, having had the privilege of a day spent in wilderness. It is something that comes too seldom, but changes us every time we experience it.
