What a day! A pod of five killer whales right off the bow started our morning as we transited Cross Sound. After breakfast, we alternated our morning explorations with hikes on George Island and Zodiac tours around the island. Some of us went on a long hike out to the WWII gun, while others enjoyed moderate and casual hikes with more interpretation of the flora and fauna of the rainforest. The afternoon brought us some amazing Zodiac cruises in the turbulent waters of the incoming tide, offering close views of the killer whales, a dozen humpback whales surfacing and feeding all around us, Steller sea lions catching and eating fish, scores of bald eagles in the trees and on the rocks, and sea otters in the calmer waters between the islands. We also visited the Tidelines Institute, a field school dedicated to experiential education and environmental leadership.
National Geographic Quest
Morning fog swallowed the Southeast Alaskan wilderness. As we cruised into Ushk Bay, anticipation seized the vessel. This morning’s hikes and Zodiac cruises were to be our final operations of the trip; every last one of us was eager to be ensconced in the wonders of the Tongass once again. Following a delicious breakfast — prepared by head chef Paul Cotta and his dedicated team — we set out for shore. Through a light rain we cruised on Zodiacs toward our landing, scattering bald eagles and common mergansers that had congregated along the shore. Ushk Bay’s annual salmon run was nearing its conclusion —and we could smell it. The shoreline was littered with rotting carcasses of pink and chum salmon, many of which were picked apart by corvids, gulls, and bears. Whether or not any of these individuals survived long enough to spawn is a mystery, but there is one certainty amidst this carnage — their sacrifice is not in vain. Their carcasses will enrich this place, injecting the forest with nutrients from the sea. Our last afternoon was spent cruising toward our anchorage near Sitka. The final day of a Lindblad Expeditions cruise is always a hard day. We have all forged new bonds in the fires of wilderness. Every one of us has found ourselves challenged and rewarded, humbled and humored, inspired and inspirational throughout this week. Our new bonds will, thanks to modern technology, be preserved in photographs and videos. Many will be carried on through photos and emails, but this group will never be reconstituted. Though it’s hard to say goodbye, the impermanence of this troupe makes the experience all the more poignant. These adventurers will surely be missed.