Ensenada Grande on Isla Partida

At approximately 4:00am this morning, the Sea Lion quietly left Costa Baja, a fuel dock situated at the south end of the city of La Paz, Mexico. Our morning destination was Isla Partida located 28 miles north, in the Gulf of California. In calm seas our vessel made this short passage and just before sunrise, the rugged outline of Los Islotes came into view. To the east the sun brought orange and red light around a small set of clouds as many of us watched from the bow of the Sea Lion. Our first day began with ideal sea conditions, warm airs, calm seas and the spectacularly carved cliffs of a desert island taking shape in early morning light.

After breakfast Zodiacs were dropped in preparation for our morning activities on shore. Several hikes were offered in the main arroyo of Ensenada Grande. The long hikers headed out and up to a magnificent view, while moderate hikers made a shorter journey to the amphitheatre, leaving the leisure hikers to enjoy the main floor of the arroyo awash in an astounding array of blooming plants. This year’s rainfall in Baja had exceeded previous years and with the gift of water arriving at the appropriate time the seeds of the arroyo had germinated and bloomed in a display almost hard to believe. One of the botanical highlights that grow in the winter months with this level of rainfall is Pityrogramma or Gold-backed ferns. The moderate hikers had an opportunity to climb a short distance, enjoy a fabulous view of the arroyo both down to the water and up above to high ridges overhead. The ultimate sight was just below and around our feet. Tiny dark green desert ferns peeked out from shady spots in the rocks. They wore the familiar fern shaped fronds that were decorated in a white powder, an adaptation that deflects some of the drying effects of the desert sun. All the hikers took time to pause and enjoy this incredibly unique eco-system affectionately referred as “a desert by the sea.”

The long hikers achieved a spectacular vantage point with views out into the Gulf and back down to the Sea Lion. As several family members made their way down through the large and small boulders one mother was heard to say, to her son who was assisting her, “this is one reason why some mothers do not eat their young!” Laughter rang out amongst the long hikers giving the energy of closeness that aids any difficult climb.

The leisure hikers paused at length on the floor of the arroyo examining each delicate flower many of which were covered in a coating of morning dew. Each hiking group shared a common thread by taking the time for a long deep breath; relaxing in the warm sun and counting our blessings amongst family, old and new friends as this beautiful place called Baja California grabbed our attention and shared its many rare and unusual gifts.