Iles les Saintes
Sunrise was at 6:12 and we had a balmy 79F with a very gentle wind of 7 knots. We were anchored in the Passe de la Baleine directly out from the picturesque village of Bourg des Saintes. These picturesque islands – only two of which are inhabited Terre-de-Haut and Terre-de-Bas – belong to the Department of Guadeloupe. This is actually part of the Republic of France and hence the flavor of these islands is virtually indistinguishable than if one were in the south of France, save of course the ideal climate enjoyed here. They have the same relationship to France as Hawaii has to the continental US. The standard of living in “The Saints” is considerably higher than in any of the Caribbean nations we have visited and here the population is overwhelmingly native French. Those original Breton settlers who did settle here were fisherman and since the islands are too small to have given birth to a plantation society there was precious little slavery here and hence there are few of African or native American descent.
The program for the day was a full one: some of the guests joined Berit and went snorkeling on a secluded beach and reported great conditions with many beautiful fish spotted and the reef still in good health. Tom Heffernan led another party up to the top of the highpoint on the island to Fort Napoleon built as a defensive fortification in 1867. Helen led a group of hardy hikers up to the fort. It is an extensive fort; it provides a commanding view of the sea in virtually all directions. The fort now contains a good maritime museum focused chiefly on “The Saints” and the history of these islands. There are a few superb large model ships (5 x 2 feet) of the ships involved in the important and strategic Battle of the Saints (1782), which pitted the French commander de Grasse against the English Admiral Rodney. The French lost and their expansion in the Caribbean came to an end. The small village of Bourg des Saintes is very colorful and very French with a boule court and the bistros and restaurants one expects in France.
We rendezvoused with the original Sea Cloud and the guests from both ships changed places for an hour. We visited the Sea Cloud and they visited the Sea Cloud II. The real highlight of the afternoon was when both of these two great tall ships unfurled sails and sailed out of “The Saints” together. What an impressive sight! As we sailed along we spotted a pod of five sperm whales that swam along side for at least an hour. They were joined by what seemed to be dozens of frisky spinner dolphins which occasionally would bow ride and then leap six feet out of the water. What a thrilling experience!
Sunrise was at 6:12 and we had a balmy 79F with a very gentle wind of 7 knots. We were anchored in the Passe de la Baleine directly out from the picturesque village of Bourg des Saintes. These picturesque islands – only two of which are inhabited Terre-de-Haut and Terre-de-Bas – belong to the Department of Guadeloupe. This is actually part of the Republic of France and hence the flavor of these islands is virtually indistinguishable than if one were in the south of France, save of course the ideal climate enjoyed here. They have the same relationship to France as Hawaii has to the continental US. The standard of living in “The Saints” is considerably higher than in any of the Caribbean nations we have visited and here the population is overwhelmingly native French. Those original Breton settlers who did settle here were fisherman and since the islands are too small to have given birth to a plantation society there was precious little slavery here and hence there are few of African or native American descent.
The program for the day was a full one: some of the guests joined Berit and went snorkeling on a secluded beach and reported great conditions with many beautiful fish spotted and the reef still in good health. Tom Heffernan led another party up to the top of the highpoint on the island to Fort Napoleon built as a defensive fortification in 1867. Helen led a group of hardy hikers up to the fort. It is an extensive fort; it provides a commanding view of the sea in virtually all directions. The fort now contains a good maritime museum focused chiefly on “The Saints” and the history of these islands. There are a few superb large model ships (5 x 2 feet) of the ships involved in the important and strategic Battle of the Saints (1782), which pitted the French commander de Grasse against the English Admiral Rodney. The French lost and their expansion in the Caribbean came to an end. The small village of Bourg des Saintes is very colorful and very French with a boule court and the bistros and restaurants one expects in France.
We rendezvoused with the original Sea Cloud and the guests from both ships changed places for an hour. We visited the Sea Cloud and they visited the Sea Cloud II. The real highlight of the afternoon was when both of these two great tall ships unfurled sails and sailed out of “The Saints” together. What an impressive sight! As we sailed along we spotted a pod of five sperm whales that swam along side for at least an hour. They were joined by what seemed to be dozens of frisky spinner dolphins which occasionally would bow ride and then leap six feet out of the water. What a thrilling experience!
