Magdalena Bay, Baja California

The sun’s light illuminated a cloudless sky and lush mangroves that lined both sides of the wide channel within the quiet waters of Magdalena Bay. Pelicans dove, and Heermann’s gulls watched from groups of 20 or so birds to see if fish were available for the stealing. Several groups of bottlenose dolphins fed near the ship. They moved on as we finished breakfast.

It was difficult to see where we would enter the green band of mangroves as we prepared to board Zodiacs. Soon many were transported to kayaks and then took off on their own mini-adventures. Kayaks offer the simple pleasures of control over one’s own destiny, whether it be smashing into overhanging branches or slowly sneaking up on long-billed curlews, willets and godwits on the mudflats. Some struck out for an aggressive paddle along a winding channel past egrets and herons, while others explored more slowly, taking in the scenery.

Those who didn’t kayak were soon poking around shallow channels in Zodiacs. Maybe a bit of Huck Fin lies deep within all of us as we wait to see what’s around the next hidden bend. One of the thrills was slowly approaching little green herons that seemed not a bit concerned. These patient fishers have been observed dropping small sticks in the water to attract prey that they promptly snatch. White ibises flew overhead, and scrub jays scolded our intrusions as we explored their waterways.

The afternoon was about sand. Grains that dry after being transported south by ocean currents are blown up the beach, bouncing off sand dollars, shells, and dolphin skulls as they find their way into beautiful barchan dunes. Ours were the only human footprints that trampled over coyote, jack-rabbit, heron, lizard, and beetle tracks. The beach on the Pacific side was so long and extensive that you could become enthralled by merely looking at it. Some beaches can be strolled, but this one pulls you into and along it with the force of a deep-seated need we have for wildness. Many of us, even if only briefly, became absorbed by crashing waves, a breeze in our face and timelessness.

As the day drew to a close, we made our way out of the entrance to Magdalena Bay. Not long after we entered the Pacific, a humpback whale surfaced near the ship then breached twice. The light began to fade fast after a green-flash sunset. A gentle swell followed us as we headed south into the night.