Bartholomew and Santiago Islands
Three-hundred-and-sixty-two-steps-are-you-crazy? That’s how we began our final day in the Galápagos Islands. In order to fit as many excursions in the twelve hours of daylight left to us, we began shortly after dawn on this trek up the internationally renowned island of Bartholomew. The wave surge on the coast was something to behold, and despite some soaking splashes from waves hitting the nearby rocks, everyone made it safely onto the jetty. With such action on shore, perhaps it was understandable that a sea lion preferred to rest in our Zodiac a short while later.
Called “Bartolomé” in Spanish, it is a barren looking island from both near and far. All the volcanic forms are exposed and little vegetation covers the tuff, cinder and ash. However the reward came soon enough. Every slight rise in altitude increased our perspective and offered a grander view than the last. At the summit was the most glorious of views possible: orange-red volcanic cones and oxidized lava flows led down to a pair of golden crescent sand beaches separated by verdant green mangroves with Pinnacle Rock on the northern coast, claiming the western end of our swimming beach.
Pacific green marine turtles had been up on the sand of both beaches, already digging their nests under the cover of darkness, letting the heat of the warm, rainy season take over and incubate their eggs. American oystercatchers and sharks patrolled the southern beach, including one rather large Galápagos shark, while we luxuriated in the water of the northern beach, body-surfing the waves as they rode in over the soft sand.
The afternoon was spent in Pto. Egas, part of James Bay, Santiago Island, our adopted island. Lindblad Expeditions, the Polaris and her guests have been critical to the successful restoration of this island once overrun with introduced species. We can be proud that once again, as in the time Charles Darwin wandered here, the Galápagos rail can be found in significant numbers roaming the moist highlands. We did not hike the green highlands this afternoon, but enjoyed instead the western coastline. Here the waves inserted themselves into the cracks and fissures of the lava flows, unwitting artistry in the motion of water moving over static rock. The sea lions and fur seals have ample space here above the water line to settle and raise their young. Sea lion pups were in the viewfinders of all, both camera-toting and memory-holding humans who found our last visit ashore almost unbearably poignant, being our last day.
Three-hundred-and-sixty-two-steps-are-you-crazy? That’s how we began our final day in the Galápagos Islands. In order to fit as many excursions in the twelve hours of daylight left to us, we began shortly after dawn on this trek up the internationally renowned island of Bartholomew. The wave surge on the coast was something to behold, and despite some soaking splashes from waves hitting the nearby rocks, everyone made it safely onto the jetty. With such action on shore, perhaps it was understandable that a sea lion preferred to rest in our Zodiac a short while later.
Called “Bartolomé” in Spanish, it is a barren looking island from both near and far. All the volcanic forms are exposed and little vegetation covers the tuff, cinder and ash. However the reward came soon enough. Every slight rise in altitude increased our perspective and offered a grander view than the last. At the summit was the most glorious of views possible: orange-red volcanic cones and oxidized lava flows led down to a pair of golden crescent sand beaches separated by verdant green mangroves with Pinnacle Rock on the northern coast, claiming the western end of our swimming beach.
Pacific green marine turtles had been up on the sand of both beaches, already digging their nests under the cover of darkness, letting the heat of the warm, rainy season take over and incubate their eggs. American oystercatchers and sharks patrolled the southern beach, including one rather large Galápagos shark, while we luxuriated in the water of the northern beach, body-surfing the waves as they rode in over the soft sand.
The afternoon was spent in Pto. Egas, part of James Bay, Santiago Island, our adopted island. Lindblad Expeditions, the Polaris and her guests have been critical to the successful restoration of this island once overrun with introduced species. We can be proud that once again, as in the time Charles Darwin wandered here, the Galápagos rail can be found in significant numbers roaming the moist highlands. We did not hike the green highlands this afternoon, but enjoyed instead the western coastline. Here the waves inserted themselves into the cracks and fissures of the lava flows, unwitting artistry in the motion of water moving over static rock. The sea lions and fur seals have ample space here above the water line to settle and raise their young. Sea lion pups were in the viewfinders of all, both camera-toting and memory-holding humans who found our last visit ashore almost unbearably poignant, being our last day.
