Isabela and Fernandina Islands

Having sailed overnight north, the Polaris rounded the northern tip of Isabela Island. We woke up with the majestic view of Roca Redonda surrounded by the sunrise. We crossed the Equator at around eight-thirty in the morning with an impressive view of the blown-out caldera of Ecuador Volcano. At Punta Vicente Roca, our visitor’s site, Zodiac rides treated groups to sensational views of the lava cliffs and tuff cones inhabited by many different animal species. Flightless cormorants, Galápagos penguins, large marine iguanas and many sea turtles were admired and praised. The extraordinary ocean sunfish (Mola mola) was observed at a very close range. This fish species, my favorite one, is a genuine record-breaker. It is the largest bony fish on Earth. The current world’s record in weight for a sunfish is 5,072 pounds! This bizarre-looking fish resembles a huge pancake with two large fins. Its tail is rather scalloped and looks just like if another fish has bitten its tail off. Sunfish start their lives as tiny larvae, only one tenth of an inch in size. If they reach adulthood they can reach gargantuan sizes, ten feet in diameter! This fact, in a nutshell, means that they can experience a growth of sixty million times its starting weight. If you compare this fact with humans, it is just like watching a human baby growing to twice the size of the Titanic. Snorkeling was next, crystal clear and calm waters provided us with an incredible natural show for we observed the highly endangered green Pacific sea turtles swimming peacefully just feet away from us. Galápagos penguins fishing were sensational. How many people can say that they have swum with penguins? We all came back enthralled with a great snorkeling adventure.

Fernandina Island, our destination in the afternoon, is considered by general consensus among Galápagos naturalists to be one of the most beautiful islands in the whole archipelago. This island is in fact one of the most pristine in the world, uninhabited and considered free of introduced species. Clear skies and a nice cool breeze provided almost perfect conditions for our expedition. Breathtaking young black lava flows can be seen spreading down its slopes. This wonderful geological setting is home to a fascinating mosaic of wildlife. A large marine iguana on top of a Galápagos National Park monument was both hilarious and inspiring. This small monolith “reminds our visitors that the indigenous wildlife of the islands is strictly protected by law”. Instead of a flag that can be in rags quickly the little monument is a highly symbolic one. The iguana was posing the whole afternoon and has been one of the most photographed ones that I have ever seen. Reluctantly we came back on board where we observed a wonderful sunset. The strong yellow and orange colors told us that our expedition today was coming to an end. Quoting the words expressed by one of our guests: “A lovely sunset for a lovely day in paradise”. We gather in the lounge to share and talk about our new experiences and discoveries.