Sibenik, Krka National Park and Otok Zlarin, Croatia
Today we reached the northernmost point of our journey, entering scenic Sveti Ante Channel just before breakfast. Local regulations require that the Panorama take a pilot to navigate this narrow passage, so we watched with great interest as the pilot boat approached, pilot stepped onboard and before we knew it we were in the channel. With an imposing Venetian fortress on our starboard side, and a lighthouse to port, we snapped photo after photo… of fishing boats, pine covered limestone shelves and WWII era submarine pens. It was a wonderful approach to a surprisingly large natural bay and the medieval port of Sibenik.
After breakfast, we departed to explore one of Croatia’s gems of a national park – Krka. Lush green foliage surrounded us and the sound of cascading water filled the air as we followed our guide Ante along the park’s newly built boardwalk path. We admired the ingenuity of the stone mills used for grinding grain, and the “washing machine” of large wooden mallets pounding woven cloth until it was clean and soft – all run completely on water power! Along the trail, we stopped to photograph fig leaves reflected in still pools, and an entire clearing filled with fall-blooming cyclamen. Each of us was drawn to a different soothing aspect of this beautiful natural area. Mid-morning, we arrived at the base of the impressive waterfall, Skradinski Buk. A few intrepid swimmers donned their suits and navigated the tricky travertine ledges at the shoreline before plunging in for a refreshing swim. The rest of us snapped photos, of both swimmers and falls, or simply relaxed in the sun with a cool drink. Too soon, the time came to start the upward climb, back to the upper viewpoint and eventually to our bus.
We returned to Sibenik near midday, and set off for more walking through the medieval streets of the city. We admired a variety of churches, squares and hidden corners before arriving at the impressive Sveti Jakovi cathedral. Declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2000, this cathedral boasts some of the finest stonemasonry in Dalmatia. After our all too brief tour of the city, we walked the waterfront back to our ship and found a wonderful lunch awaiting us.
Just after lunch, our pilot onboard, we once again navigated the Sveti Ante Channel, exiting Sibenik Bay and bound for the nearby island called Zlarin. It was a gorgeous calm, warm afternoon, offering perfect conditions for swimming and kayaking. After dropping the hook, our kayaks were lowered to the water and we were set to explore. The scent of pine filled the air, and we all enjoyed the relaxed afternoon in our own way. Some chose to paddle the periphery of the bay, several jumped in the water for a swim and some simply sunbathed on deck.
Gathering in the evening, we enjoyed a talk on plants of the eastern Mediterranean from our Naturalist, Sharon Grainger, followed by a tasting of local wines, meats and cheeses, as well as a famous Greek specialty, grilled octopus! After being tempted by the smell of the barbecue, we were happy to heed the call for dinner, venturing back out on deck afterwards for photos of the nearly full moon.
