Hvar, Croatia
Our anchorage was in the picturesque port of Hvar Town this morning just off the Pakleni Islands, and the Panorama's Zodiacs shuttled us to shore. Our guides, Barbara and Jo, met us at the small square in inner harbor to begin our 90-minute walking tour. As we strolled along the Riva (harborside), Barbara explained everyday island life. It wasn't until after the 1970's that water could be piped in from the mainland. Before that time rainwater was collected in cisterns or had to be brought in by ship. This limited the amount and type of agriculture that could be done on this dry and rocky soil. Naturally, wine and olive oil are two of the main agricultural products of this island, as well as extensive lavender and rosemary fields that provide the essential oils for which Hvar is famous. Fishing and trade (and along with trade, tourism) constituted the rest of the economy. Living on Hvar has all the advantages and disadvantages of small town life – few people lock their doors, but at the same time everyone knows everyone else's business. Students who want to go on to the university must leave the island in order to do so. Some decide that attractions the big city has to offer are more appealing, while others long to return to the intimacy of island life.
The town got its start in medieval times as a commune with democratically elected officials. However, when the island of Hvar sought protection from the Venetian Empire, they were required to adopt Venetian aristocratic principles. Only nobles could serve on the council. All noble families were required to live on the hill (in the Grod section of town) separated by the main street from the commoners (in the Burak section). The Lion of St. Mark and the Venetian influence is seen in the architecture of the loggia, which to this day serves as a meeting hall for officials and a gathering place for local events.
We climbed to the terrace of the Arsenal where ships used to be repaired and which now houses one of the oldest theaters in Europe. From there we could see the “Spanjola” fortress on the top of the hill as well as the rooftops of the palaces leading up to it. We then crossed into the Grod section and stopped in the small courtyard of the Benedictine convent. The nuns here are cloistered and specialize in lace made out of agave fiber. Further down one of the narrow streets was another palace restored to its former glory on the outside with luxury apartments on the inside. On the large stone cistern next to it was engraved another Lion of St. Mark – this time, however, the book was closed, indicating that it was a time of war. Our next stop was out onto the main square in front of Saint Stephan's cathedral which has multiple altars carved out of multi-colored marble imported from all over the Mediterranean – a feature that further attests to Hvar's importance as part of the Venetian trade route.
We then proceeded to the small promontory where the Franciscan monastery is situated. While there are only two monks left from what was once a thriving community, the monastery has opened its doors both as a museum and as a venue for concerts during the summer. Tonight's concert was a touring klapa group. The highlight of the monastery is in its refectory where there is the mural-sized oil painting of the Last Supper on three sections of canvas. The painter is unknown but local legend has it that he was a sailor or traveler who had fallen ill and been taken in by the monks to be nursed back to health. Some speculate that the beggar in the lower right hand corner represents the painter himself. The monastery also has a small display of amphora and other archaeological finds from the nearby waters. In another room is a collection of art work (icons, paintings, statues and wood carvings) from medieval to the present day. The garden overlooking the water is protected by a huge cypress that has been split into several branches providing shade from sun.
The rest of the morning was time at leisure and there was a variety of activities to chose from. Some of the more energetic hiked up to the citadel for panoramic views of the Old Town and its harbor. Others meandered through narrow streets with hanging plants and colorful laundry. Although it was Sunday, the farmer's market was still selling local produce, olive oil and herb-infused brandy. There are a multitude of small shops that were open and around the Riva were stands selling lavender oil. Others indulged in the Dalmatian custom of sitting in a cafe sipping coffee and watching the passersby. Some had lunch in a local restaurant before returning to the ship. The wind had picked up so we moved to a more calm anchorage for the rest of the afternoon as we prepared for tomorrow's departure day.
The evening was festive despite the fact that it was our last night together on Panorama. One of our passengers, Mike Ferguson, shared some spectacular photos that he had taken during our trip. Grace Fielder gave her last presentation on the Fourth Crusade. Then the Captain's Farewell Cocktail Party began with Greek appetizers and music, followed by the Farewell dinner.
