Petersburg
We began our day near the mouth of the Stikine River. This river forms one of the few connections between the Northwest Coast and the interior, and serves as a conduit for wildlife. Hence, the area around its mouth is the only place in Alaska where one might see moose and mountain lions.
We landed at Ideal Cove. Here, a boardwalk trail ascends streamside to a series of boggy ponds. Walking the trail, we were surrounded not only by the grandeur of coastal temperate rainforest – huge trees towered over us – but also by its intricacy. We found the deep green leaves of goldthread, and saw its “spring loaded” seedheads that catapult seeds, powered by raindrops. We saw the huge, tropical-looking leaves of skunk cabbage, and heard about the surprising biochemical tricks it uses to dominate its environs and to avoid browsers. We admired the glossy berries of bunchberry dogwood, pretty enough to entice the most discerning thrush.
By afternoon we reached Petersburg. This town is focused on developing the natural wealth of Alaska. Fishing boats, rank upon rank, line the town’s waterfront. Many went walking about the dock, hearing about the variety of fishing boats. Some went to explore muskeg or peat bog. Far from being an oozy, stinky swamp, muskeg is charming, open, park-like, and filled with curious species. Sphagnum moss, and the strange environment it creates, covers more of the world than any other kind of plant! It creates a harsh, acidic soil, exceptionally low in nutrients. Surprisingly, plants growing here, freed from competing with spruce and hemlock, are actually more diverse than in the surrounding forest.
Meanwhile, some went flightseeing. To see tidewater glaciers is an awesome experience, but flying gives one a true sense of their scale. Others walked about Petersburg. Since no cruise ships call here, the town is remarkable in its ordinariness. Highlights include the hardware store and the laundromat.
And at last, we were able to participate in the fishing industry of Petersburg – dinner included locally caught Dungeness crab.
The richness of Southeast Alaska is manifest in the diversity of its natural and cultural history. Today we had a fine sampling of both.
