Isla San José Mangroves and Punta Colorada
The National Geographic Sea Bird’s anchor dropped in the inky darkness before dawn. Only a few stars sparkled overhead due to the overcast sky, yet the clouds could not have been better for our sunrise Zodiac cruises through the mangroves at Isla San Jose. The still-black landscape was silhouetted against a pale blue and ember-orange backdrop (see photo) as we entered the shallow, hidden entrance into a fascinating ecosystem very different from the desert that dominates here.
Mangroves grow in estuaries and shallow, salt-water regions throughout the tropical world and sometimes reach temperate areas as well. Numerous species of fishes, invertebrates, and birds seek food and shelter within this nutrient-rich environment. From the Zodiacs we could see porcupine fish and sting rays. Sponges, tiny oysters and other organisms encrusted the stilt-like roots of red mangroves that clung to the silty sea floor. Flocks of white ibises and snowy egrets glinted white in the morning light, and cryptically colored sandpipers such as whimbrels and willets blended in with the shoreline. A number of people spotted the elusive mangrove warbler, a canary-sized bird that can tease even seasoned birdwatchers by hiding in the dense understory.
After leaving the mangroves we had the opportunity to observe crew members gather data for a National Geographic research project on the oxygen minimum layer. At certain locations within the Gulf of California specified by Dr. Bill Gilly, the scientist overseeing this project, trained officers and deckhands on the National Geographic Sea Bird lower scientific instruments to record oxygen saturation levels. This information can be used to measure changes over time. Guests on board had prepared for this by decorating styrofoam coffee cups to be dragged down to 1500 feet along with the equipment. What happens to all those air bubbles when they are subjected to the extreme pressure of the water at depth? We soon found out when the cups resurfaced. They looked like withered toy cups for espresso.
For the afternoon, we relocated to Punta Colorada, a spectacular site on the opposite side of Isla San José. Both of our destinations today are not often accessible, because they require just the right tides or wind conditions. The day was ideal for snorkeling, kayaking, Zodiac cruising, or relaxing near the water’s edge. We landed on a beach of rounded granite cobbles that abutted steep cliffs of sandstone. Fossilized shells and vertebrates offered proof of an ancient history of sediments laid down beneath the ocean. The now-exposed layers had subsequently been whipped by wind and weather that eroded their surfaces into intricate shapes of red or tan dragons and honeycombs. Snorkelers slipped into the cool, clear water from an anchored Zodiac. Schools of dazzling blue-and gold snappers swam past, and even a sea turtle appeared!
Towering walls of stone dwarfed the colorful kayaks and Zodiacs that skirted the rugged shoreline. Hikers of all speeds walked up a scenic arroyo, or dry streambed. Photographers lingered to compose the perfect shots of colorful flowers and slender lizards. Other hikers took time to learn more about the unusual plants that survive in the arid and seemingly inhospitable Sonoran desert.
Zodiacs shuttled everyone back to the ship just before dusk settled in. Moonlight cast shadows onto the decks and spilled onto the calm water of the Sea of Cortez. Before long we feasted on a Mexican fiesta buffet. From before sunrise until well after moonrise, Baja California had shared its wild beauty and impressive scenery.
