Isabela and Fernandina Islands
We started the day early with a beautiful red sunrise while navigating past Punta Albermarle, the northernmost lava fields of Isabela Island. What a wonderful chance we had to see the dry forests of the lowlands completely green with new leaves! The contrast with the dark sinuous lava flows and the red walls of the steep slopes of our highest volcano was striking. We saw a few endemic dark-rumped petrels, enjoyed their particular flight; some Mobula rays breeching fully out of the water and the permanent presence of green sea turtles and Galápagos sea lions, magnificent frigate birds, Galápagos shearwaters and Galápagos storm petrels.
The most exciting observation came in the form of a pod of porpoising fur seals. The launching devil ray doing a 720 turn, plus the attack of a falcon-type raptor on some of the smallest seabirds added action to the beauty and the stillness of the ocean. I am almost certain it was a Peregrine falcon, an uncommon sighting…and my first at this location.
The next location proved to be as incredible as usual. Our tender ride took us first to the open ocean, away from the island and the tall cliffs of Punta Vicente Roca over very deep water…looking for the elusive Oceanic sunfish. We saw several of them, a couple very close, on clear blue water. The ride went on to see the amazing usual Galápagos fauna: lots of sea turtles, blue-footed boobies plunge diving, perching noddy terns and Nazca boobies. The Galápagos fur seals put on a show while cooling down in the water and our guests were very excited with our first sightings of the flightless cormorant.
With clear water we were all ready for a dip, and the snorkeling that ensued fulfilled everyone’s expectations. Our luckiest guests had a chance to swim with penguins and cormorants...right next to the turtles, sea lions and reef fish typical of the area.
In the afternoon we spent almost three hours walking around Punta Espinoza, one of those mythical Galápagos sites: everywhere you look there is something very interesting to see. As usual, the most interesting part of the trip is being able to observe the animals and experience a bit of their life, and the harshness and beauty of the youngest island of the group.
This rocky point is the only visitor’s site on Fernandina Island, a coastal oasis on the lower slopes of a giant built of basalt. The weather, a bit rainy and wet, was such a blessing after a long dry and cool season, made the overall temperature very comfortable; and the animals were quiet active throughout the visit. The large marine iguanas marching back to the “pahoehoe” lava shores after foraging at sea, made it something special…as well as the late afternoons laziness of the other inhabitants of this wonderful place. Another awesome day in paradise!
