Lübek, Germany
Under clear blue skies we traveled along the River Trave, past small hamlets with thatched roofs, and into the reddish brick harbor of Lübek. We were met by the long shallow passenger boats which took us on a fascinating tour of the old medieval city which is now completely surrounded by water. From its foundation in 1143, Lübek was an important trading center which connected the productive fields of central Germany with the fish producing Baltic regions. Eventually, Lübek became the central power of the loose German trading alliance, called the Hanseatic League which built a number of fortified powerful towns that connected the British Isles to the west, across the Baltic all the way to the Russian City States of Novgorod and Kiev, and as far south as Constantinople.
The river boats circumnavigated the once fortified island, and the remains of the old city walls are still visible as grass covered mounds with occasional spaces for gates. From the boat dock we started walking tours that took us into the center of town, which is a mix of old and modern. A number of stepped façade buildings still stand preserved along narrow cobbled streets that rise up a gently sloping hill. As all the Baltic Hanseatic cities, Lübek is proud of its many churches, which are built of brick. The first church we came to was St. Peters, which has an elevator that takes visitors up to the top of the bell tower where one gets a magnificent view of the city. Some of us returned in the afternoon and enjoyed a spectacular view as the sky today was particularly crisp and clear. From the tower in on this clear beautiful day we could see the layout of the inner courtyards of the old merchant homes and the intricate layout of the older parts of the city.
Further up in the center we entered the main square, which is surrounded by brick buildings adorned with the insignia of each of the member cities of the League. It is interesting that the Double Headed Eagle, the symbol of the Russian Empire, the Hapsburg Empire and of Byzantium is quite prominent throughout the city.
Beyond the Main Square we entered the majestic basilica of St. Mary, patroness of the wealthiest merchants throughout the Baltic States. Almost all the Hanseatic Cities built a church dedicated to St. Mary as the centerpiece of each of their towns. Here in the Western Baltic the churches are built of brick, stone being somewhat scarce locally. The church was originally catholic but was rededicated during the reformation and is now painted in gorgeous muted colors of cream with delicate flowers and vines extending up the columns.
Perhaps the most intriguing of all the historic locations of the city is the Holy Ghost hospital which was built in the 12th century to house the old, sick and indigent. Long before the Italian renaissance introduced “Humanism” - the concept of caring for the old and disabled - here in this northern Hanseatic city an incipient middle class emerged which recognized the unique value of every individual, no matter how rich or how poor.
