Gold Harbor and St. Andrew’s Bay, South Georgia
A gentle wake-up call at 4:45a.m. and the smell of freshly baked pastries started the morning on National Geographic Explorer as we prepared to make our first landing in South Georgia. The first full day of activities would start with a sunrise zodiac ashore to Gold Harbor, a place that is known for its spectacular views of beautiful mountaintops and wildlife galore.
South Georgia is a place of splendor that is unlike anything else you will find in this world. All of the senses are exercised and the place leaves you feeling as if you stepped into your own Frozen Planet series. The early morning cloud cover blanketed the shore as the first Zodiac hit the beach.
Gold Harbor is home to a large colony of king penguins, fur seals, elephant seals and a smattering of gentoo penguins. Stepping out of the zodiac, we were greeted by very curious king penguins wanting to know who was coming ashore on their turf. They checked us out and decided there was nothing too exciting about us and set off back down the beach. The fur seal pups put on a grandiose show of acting courageous and coming at people but never getting too close. Their hisses could be heard down the beach.
The first thing you notice when landing at Gold Harbor is the overload of senses. There are the smells of the penguins and seals, the sounds of the elephant seals sneezing, blowing their noses, and making obscene noises as they snooze on the beach. The king penguins have their distinct call that never seems to leave your ear. The view of the snow-capped mountains and grassy hillsides with nesting albatross is a real treat. It is a nature lover’s paradise.
After spending a few good hours sitting on the beach, taking photos or wandering down the beach, everyone headed back to the ship for lunch and a quick rest before heading back out, this time to St. Andrews Bay, home to the largest king penguin colony on South Georgia. Again, sensual overload.
Imagine a place where you will never experience anything like it again. A place so teeming with wildlife and beauty that you cannot even fathom it. It doesn’t seem real that you could be standing on this beach, surrounded by 100,000 pairs of penguins. Many walked along the beach, taking it in. Others were taking photos and smiling like giddy school children.
The light mist made for a chilly Zodiac ride, but the true feeling of amazement at witnessing such a place made it all the worthwhile. This is true, wild adventure, an experience that many will remember for a long time. South Georgia finds a place in the hearts of many and captures your spirit with its magic.
