King George Island, Admiralty Bay
A smooth passage northeast of the Gerlache and Bransfield straits brought us to the rugged archipelago of the South Shetlands lying off our portside by sunrise. Whale blows could be seen in nearly all directions over the relatively calm seas backlit by the rising sun. Dozens of humpback whales (Megaloptera novaeangliae) were actively feeding in these productive waters. Of special interest was the handful of fin whales (Balaenoptera physalus) spotted also taking advantage of the abundant food available. The latter of these two species is the second largest living animal on the planet and at one time they were hunted nearly to extinction in these very same waters during the height of the whaling days in the Southern Ocean. Our destination, King George Island, was one of the whaling stations where these leviathans were processed for their blubber.
Clearly visible from our anchorage nearly a mile off shore was the remains of that very industry. Massive containment tanks and decaying buildings are all that stand now. Today’s excursion would be centered around two of the many active bases located on the island. At over 40 miles in length and 16 miles across King George is the largest of the South Shetlands. The high concentration of bases on the island is mainly due to the fact that Admiralty Bay remains ice free year round and also due to the historic significance it has played. The most curious structure on the island has to be the Russian Orthodox Church sticking out over the horizon overlooking the Russian Bellingshausen Base established in 1967. Literally right next door lies the much larger Chilean Frei base established two years later. Both nations claim these slices of land as sovereign and thus we were able walk from Russia to Chile and vice versa. Both bases are engaged in scientific research of a wide variety and are staffed year round.
We walked up a gradual talus slope to the elegant and sturdy-looking log Orthodox Church, which was almost surreal to see perched on the ridgeline in this wild setting. The log work and ornamentation inside were truly spectacular and though a very small house of worship, it was still quite moving. Having had the chance to see the working Russian base our groups headed across the “border” to the Chilean side. Being a much larger base a more urban feeling set in and as we wound down the gravel road through the “neighborhoods” of modular housing and various outbuildings, we ultimately made our way to the headquarters for the Chilean armada stationed here. An arm of the navy, these eight men, each stationed here for one full year, welcomed us into their well-appointed and functional base. Friendly and willing to share stories of life year-round in the Antarctic, these men (and women at times) call this island home. A custom of sorts transpired with staff and crew trading patches from our ship for patches from the base. As I write this mine lies next to the computer and reads, “Campaña Antarctica-Estacion Maritima Fildes-2012-2013,” a cherished souvenir of our visit indeed.
