Technically the heading for today could simply read PLAN B. As early as mid-afternoon yesterday our Captain and expedition leader were well aware of a massive low pressure system off the coast of Southern Chile that would put us in a position to alter our original expedition plan for today. This system was so large it had colored the entire Drake Passage a deep red and pink color on the satellite weather imagery indicative of wave heights exceeding 12 meters and wind speeds up to 100 knots. Even though we are navigating in primarily protected waters of the fjords the direction and force off the winds would surely impact or plans.
From the time the sun began to lighten the sky it was clear that today's 'plans' would be solely shaped by the tempest off shore. The faint light breaking through the clouds revealed through the porthole in my cabin steady snowfall being blown near horizontal, and the nearby slopes and forests were dusted in fresh spring snow. By 0630 on the bridge, as we sailed up Seno Agostini in hopes to find a sheltered anchorage from the building winds the sea state revealed the true nature of the complex and impressive way in which these fjords can manipulate the Patagonia winds. The navy blue-black seas were being topped with brilliant white foam with further streaks of white left behind each swell, occasional blasts of glacial air crashed down on the already frenzied sea causing the ship to shudder as towers of salty air would swirl about on the surface. As dramatic as this sounds it really was a beautiful scene to behold, and to add to the display albatross, petrels, and fulmars struggled to keep hold on their normal mastery of such conditions.
We had more or less yielded any further thought of making landfall today, rather instead we'd take advantage of being able to experience this impressive event and surroundings from the comfort of our well-suited ship. Despite the constant high winds the conditions were quite pleasant on board with little or no motion of the ship being felt. From Seno Agostini we headed to Seno Martinez. The weather was ever changing, or at least the appearance outside was. The wind was a constant companion and with it came intermittent showers of snow. Depending on what time, or what side of the ship you peered out of, one could experience almost a whole new day. Occasionally we'd sail out of a heavy snow bank into clear skies affording us looks at the stunning landscapes with steep walled peaks at times their valleys stuffed with glacial ice.
By mid-afternoon the crew and our two Chilean pilots on board had brought the ship to the entrance of Canal Gabriel. This narrow and near perfectly straight channel is a side channel of the main arm of Estrecho de Magellanes, and at mid fetch has a narrow constriction called, you guessed it, Angostura Gabriel (Gabriel Narrows). The timing was perfect for the orientation of the channel afforded us a good lee from the winds, so much so that by the time we were approaching the narrows the decks were full of spectators from bow to bridge. Perhaps it was the scenery, or the need to step outside without fear of being blown over, or the thrill of watching our fine ship pass through the narrowing channel, but I think an added incentive was the fresh Glüg (Swedish mold wine) our hotel department had prepared to celebrate the navigation and sheer beauty of a day of exploration from our incredible ship.
For here in Patagonia one must embrace the challenges of the weather, soak in the landscape shaped by the forces beyond our control and revel in the thrill of it all.
