“The only thing constant is change.” Such is the way of life here in Antarctica. This morning we were supposed to begin our day on an excursion at Orne Harbor, however, the wind would have made for a very uncomfortable Zodiac ride. No worries, here in Antarctica what was lost by not visiting Orne Harbor we more than make up for at our plan B destination, Danco Island. With its large colony of gentoo penguins, the magnificent vistas, and the sculpted icebergs, one could hardly imagine a more beautiful place on Earth. We split into two groups, those of us who choose to hike up the snow-covered slope to the penguin colony at the top of the island, and those who choose to explore the waters around the island by Zodiac.
Trudging through the snow, we wonder why such a small bird as the gentoo penguin want to hike 1000 foot climb in elevation to the top of the island? The view is spectacular, maybe the gentoo has a taste for scenic vistas while they incubate their one lone egg at their nest. It is a nice thought, but much more likely that the birds need to nest where the wind keeps the rocks free of snow, and suitable for nesting. In the end, the work it takes to reach the colonies is more than worth the effort as before us, so many penguins are setting to the task of heeding the annual call to come together and insure the continual survival of their species. The walk also gives us a greater appreciation for the birds who give so much of themselves, to be successful nesters.
Those of us who take to the water as our viewing platform are no less rewarded by the beauty we encounter in the form of artfully sculpted icebergs. Deep blue curves, skillfully chiseled shapes, and weather worn surfaces leave all of us in awe. Penguins leap into the air around us as we negotiate through the huge pieces of ice. On one small rock islet, three Weddell seals bask in the sun that one minute is shining, and the next covered over by clouds. All of it leaving us wanting more, a good thing, we have an exciting afternoon ahead of us.
Port Lockroy is a must stop for any of the vessels coming to Antarctica. Home of the British Antarctic Survey, it is an historic British research station and the museum at the site is an excellent window of how early Antarctic researchers would have lived. Tins and boxes of food leftover from its working days, the living quarters are still as they were in the early 1900s. Besides the museum, there is a post office and a small gift shop which is always a hit amongst our guests. Add to the historic features of the place a colony of gentoo penguins and it is a perfect place for our afternoon landing. This is still early in the season and there was still a good deal of fast ice along the face of a beautiful glacier and our captain gave us an extra treat by nestling National Geographic Explorer into the ice allowing us to walk out onto the ice and have some fun in the snow. The inner child in us all was very grateful.
