Expedition Stories

Our fleet navigates the world in search of adventure. These are the stories they bring back…

Previous Reports

Daily Expedition Reports

2/11/2011

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National Geographic Sea Lion

From the National Geographic Sea Lion in Panama

Barro Colorado and Gatun This morning the sun found the National Geographic Sea Lion in Gatun Lake within the Panama Canal.  After breakfast, Doctor Leigh a senior resident scientist from Barro Colorado Island greeted our guests onboard the National Geographic Sea Lion . After a quick introduction to the BCI Research Center, we proceeded to disembark onto one of the oldest research station in the neotropical region.  Once on the island, some of us explored the borders of the island on Zodiacs while others walked some of the trails. Howler monkeys and centenary trees were on our path. We had the chance to hear about the research projects that are taking place in this magical area, and spent the morning exploring, taking pictures and hearing about many interesting things.  As we explored the island we could see markers and signs from all the research going on. Every time we saw a colored ribbon we wondered what kind of information was being collected and how many researchers and scientists had walked the trails we were walking, in the last eight decades. Close to midday everybody returned to the National Geographic Sea Lion to continue our voyage towards the locks of Gatun, where we arrived after two hours. Our expectations were at their peek, as the line handlers pulled the ropes and the Panama Canal Pilot was giving our vessel directions through the locks and chambers.  Once again the locks were closing behind us and within minutes the National Geographic Sea Lion descended around 85 feet, this time for good. Now we were navigating in the waters of the Caribbean Sea and behind the last set of gates we left pictures, stories, laughs and an incredible amount of memories that we will always keep in our hearts.

Daily Expedition Reports

11/18/2012

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National Geographic Sea Lion

From the National Geographic Sea Lion in Costa Rica & Panama

Quepos, Costa Rica / Manuel Antonio National Park Surprise, surprise! There was a sloth waiting for us at the beach! A two-toed sloth welcomed our expedition team as soon as we approached the beach at Manuel Antonio National Park. It was definitely exciting to find this incredible animal at such a close distance. As a matter of fact, National Geographic Sea Lion guests lived an extraordinary experience when we found the sloth right over the chairs at the “beach station.” The two-toed sloth is a semi-diurnal mammal that is normally found at the well-known beach almond tree. A lot of people believe this is the only type of a leaf they consume for survival but that is actually a myth. The sloth eats more than 40 different species of leaves from different trees. Sea Lion woke up in the morning mist and slowly became part of the natural ambience. Some guests came with their fresh coffee to enjoy the gratifying sunrise magisterially offered by Mother Nature. The first light of day was shyly coming through the windows in the Lounge, and everyone was excited to start an adventure in Costa Rica. Our efforts were not frustrated since, almost immediately, we were rewarded by a good number of critters that showed up before our own eyes. In addition to the sloth we found a howler monkey as well as many white-throated capuchin monkeys. These monkeys were the main attraction at the park! They were jumping and playing all the time at the beach. Our photographers on board were delighted with the number of species we found not too far from our starting point. We offered a couple of trails while in Manuel Antonio; the “Sloth Valley Walk,” specially designed for whoever doesn’t feel like climbing too much, or the Cathedral Point, for those wanting to really stretch their legs! Everyone came back content from their walks in Manuel Antonio, mainly because of our success in finding species in the rain forest. I must say, the great results we always obtain are mostly thanks to the local guides who accompany us here. Both Karen and Mop are young Costa Rican guides who truly believe in the same concepts Lindblad/National Geographic promotes for their expeditions. All too soon, it was time to come back on board the ship. Great memories from Manuel Antonio will accompany our travelers during the rest of the journey!

Daily Expedition Reports

12/2/2012

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National Geographic Sea Lion

From the National Geographic Sea Lion in Costa Rica and Panama

Manuel Antonio National Park, Puntarenas, Costa Rica Early this morning, on my way to meet with Captain Sinclair on the bridge of National Geographic Sea Lion, I had to stop for a few seconds to witness the orange hues of the sunrise across Manuel Antonio National Park. Amazing; after a cold front that brought precious rainfall to our land, finally for the first time in five days we enjoyed a crisp blue sky in the Central Pacific region. This was the second day of our photo expedition. Right at the moment the park opened we were transferring our guests, with their spirits and photo equipment ready, to fulfill a passion for nature. One of the stars of the day was a brown-throated, three-toed sloth moving actively in search of young leaves. This individual has been observed in the last couple of weeks in this area. It seems that the abundance of immature foliage from the host tree is keeping it happy in these environs. After a few meters on our walks different species pleased our expectations, with sightings of more sloths, crab-eating raccoons, spiny-tailed iguanas, Philadelphia vireos, and red-legged honeycreepers among other species. With a refreshing swim in the calm waters of Espadilla Sur Beach, we ended our morning visit at the main trail system of the park. The afternoon was waiting for us with a burrito-style lunch, including the always-present rice and beans, a definite must-have staple food in the Central American region. By mid-afternoon Jack Swenson provided a great teaching tool with his talk on “Photo essentials and challenges of the rainforest.” After his talk our main goal was to look for marine life. Captain Sinclair positioned the ship sailing south parallel to the majestic Costeòa Range, in the proximity of the Marino Ballena National Park. A picturesque sunset and the vivid conversations of our guests during cocktail hour made me feel renewal; life and nature merged together again to show us the marvels of our world.

Daily Expedition Reports

1/20/2013

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National Geographic Sea Lion

From the National Geographic Sea Lion in Costa Rica & Panama

Barro Colorado Island, Pedro Miguel & Miraflores locks Our day began when we anchored a short distance off Barra Colorado Island (BCI) just after sunrise. This lushly forested isle was created when the Chagres River was dammed to create Gatun Lake during construction of the Panama Canal. Maintained in a pristine state since its creation, BCI is administered as a natural sciences research center by the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute (STRI). After breakfast we gathered in the lounge to hear STRI’s director, Dr. Egbert Leigh, brief us about BCI and the all-important biological research undertaken here. STRI’s own naturalist guides then led tours of the island. After being ferried ashore by our Zodiac crew, the more energetic-minded participants set out along the hilly forest trails, while the remainder toured the perimeter of the island by Zodiacs. Both groups were richly rewarded with wildlife sightings, and with fascinating insights into forest ecology. The biological field station facility proved a veritable menagerie: giant beetles, agoutis, a harlequin poison-dart frog, hippo-sized bullfrogs, army ants, and scintillatingly blue morpho butterflies were all viewed at fingertip reach even before we stepped onto the forest trails. Crocodile and howler monkey sightings were thrilling highlights for those on the Zodiac tour. We were back aboard National Geographic Sea Lion by 11:30am and thereafter continued across Gatun Lake. Our Panamanian guide Joshua Hall narrated on the PA system as we passed through Culebra Cut and beneath the graceful Centennial Bridge to enter the Pedro Miguel and Miraflores locks. Having passed through the Gatun locks (on the Caribbean side) the previous night, passengers were excited by the chance to experience our Pacific locks passage in mid-afternoon. Beyond, we passed under the Bridge of the Americas and marveled at the skyscrapers of Panama City scratching a deep-blue sky. We ended our day in style as Hotel Manager Erasmo Estripeaut invited guests onto the sundeck to enjoy delicious fresh-fish ceviche and margaritas at sunset. Captain Dan Dion then joined us in the lounge to formally introduce himself, and Maguil Céspedes followed with a fascinating recap focused on army ant ecology. After yet another superlative dinner, we convened in the lounge to view the PBS special, “A Man, A Plan, A Canal… Panama”—a fitting and fascinating end to our passage through the Panama Canal.

Daily Expedition Reports

1/28/2013

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National Geographic Sea Lion

From the National Geographic Sea Lion in Costa Rica & Panama

Osa Peninsula, Costa Rica Good grief! What a day! Today is every tropical rain forest naturalist´s dream. The Osa Peninsula is the southernmost area on the Pacific side of Costa Rica. This place was isolated from the mainland for many years, as it is so far from the Central Valley and it has a narrow isthmus separating it from the rest of the country; as a result, it has been kept almost untouched from human intervention. Today we visited two different sites in this area: the first a privately-owned wildlife refuge and the second a national park. Both places are teeming with biodiversity, as the peninsula is one of the most diverse places in the country. Whatever we chose to do today was rewarded with incredible sightings of wildlife. Early this morning, Mr. Enrique Van Der Brieken (aka Ban Ban) welcomed us into his home where he keeps 70 hectares of almost untouched rain forest. He has cleared a few trails through his property, which works as a buffer zone between the human-inhabited areas and the almost intact forest of Corcovado National Park, and this morning we got to walk and explore them. Some chose the premises walk to concentrate more on bird watching or photography; others chose the not-so-simple way and took the long walk. This choice really did reward our work and sweat. A group of about 25 white-lipped-peccary, 30 or more Geoffrey´s spider monkeys, and a ten-inch-wide and very active leaf-cutter ants’ trail were the highlights of the morning. Some of the naturalists have roamed the Costa Rican trails for years and have seen the peccaries maybe two or three times. While we were still getting over our amazement, our hotel department disembarked with an incredible beach lunch. Back on board, the captain repositioned the ship just a few miles further south and we were ready for the afternoon activity, exploring Corcovado National Park. With an extension of over 40,000 hectares (around 100,000 acres), the rain forests contained within its boundaries are widely considered to be the most species-rich in Central American. Whether we chose the long walk to the waterfall or the less strenuous one to the Pargo, we had an incredible forest experience: spider monkeys, howler monkeys, white-nosed coati, black-cheeked ant-tanager, fasciated tiger heron, basilisk and anoles lizards, scarlet macaws, trogons and boat-billed herons. For those of us who love roaming the forest, today was an exceptional day.

Daily Expedition Reports

2/10/2013

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National Geographic Sea Lion

From the National Geographic Sea Lion in Costa Rica & Panama

Manuel Antonio National Park and Agujitas River A cool breeze welcomed National Geographic Sea Lion to her first destination of the trip. The sun was coming out when we dropped anchor in front of Costa Rica’s jewel park, Manuel Antonio National Park. A nice beach surrounded by a lush forest was soon revealed to us. This park is one of the smallest parks in Costa Rica. Surrounded by a vast development, Manuel Antonio is the crowning glory of the area. Home to several troops of howler monkeys, white-faced capuchin monkeys, two species of sloths and many other species of flora and fauna, the park is also known for its gorgeous beaches. We had the opportunity to land on one of its beaches and explore two trails before the park got crowded with other visitors. As soon as we started our hikes through the Sloth Valley Trail, the animals began to show up. The two species of sloth were spotted and many were females with babies. We learned that due to the development surrounding the park, major predators such as jaguars and harpy eagles are not found within its boundaries. For this reason, the smaller mammals are easily spotted. On one hand, it is good for visitors since they can see them easily but on the other hand, the park has become an isolated forest landmass. There are combined efforts between the government and private institutions to create a biological corridor to allow the animals to move to other national parks. This will help the different species to not interbreed and assure their survival in the area. After an outstanding morning of exploration, we returned to our ship and weighed anchor. We had to get to our next destination of the day, Agujitas River on the Osa Peninsula. On our way, several pods of pantropical spotted dolphins escorted our ship. After four hours, we finally arrived to Drake’s Bay, where the waters of the Agujitas River flow in. We took the Zodiacs to cruise the mouth of the river. A dense forest was in front of us and several species of herons, shorebirds and flycatchers flew around us while we made our way to the river. The cicadas never stopped singing even though the sun was beginning to set. A troop of howler monkeys were having their late meal without being bothered by us. As the sun began to set, we all gathered in the lounge for cocktail hour and shared our thoughts about our great experiences today in the tropical rain forest.

Daily Expedition Reports

12/31/2011

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National Geographic Sea Lion

From the National Geographic Sea Lion in Central America

Granito de Oro Islet, Coiba National Park, Panama After sailing through the night, National Geographic Sea Lion dropped its anchor next to a “comic strip like” islet in Coiba National Park. This islet, known as Granito de Oro (“Little Grain of Gold”), is a good snorkeling spot where four tall palms emerge from upon the shrubs and are surrounded with paradisiac white sand and semi-emerging volcanic rocks. The sun was bright and the clouds were spread out allowing a blue sky to peek through, it confirmed to us the nice weather we were going to have. Our last day of the year started with this spectacular scenery. Coiba National Park is an isolated marine preserve 14 miles off the Pacific coast of Panama. It has an extension of around 675,000 acres, of which approximately 125,000 encompass the 194 square mile Island of Coiba and 38 other small islands and islets; all the rest is marine zone. This park is part of an important marine corridor that connects the Islands of Cocos, Malpelo, Gorgona and Galápagos; from Costa Rica down to Ecuador. It’s here in Coiba where you can find the second largest coral reef in the Eastern Pacific. It is the perfect paradise for nature lovers. Before being declared a national park it was known as “La Isla del Diablo”, Devil’s Island for being a penal colony since 1919. The prison began to close in 1990 to make way for the National Park. In 2005, UNESCO declared the park a World Heritage Site and the last convict was released. Right after breakfast, we took hold of our gear and went ashore. As we got close to the islet we could see under the clear water schools of fishes and an interesting garden of corals. The technicolor underwater world began to reveal itself as we swam around. Rainbow wrasses, bicolored parrot fish, Pacific crevale jacks, Moorish idols, white tipped sharks and hawks billed turtles amid other species of reef dwelling fish proved to us that indeed we were in a hedonic paradise. The morning passed and we had to return to the ship and weigh anchor. 190 nautical miles had to be covered in order to get to our next destination. As we sailed to the east, several pods of Pantropical spotted dolphins came to bow-ride National Geographic Sea Lion giving us our farewell. There was no better way to say “Goodbye 2011 and welcome 2012” than sailing into a lovely sunset.  

Daily Expedition Reports

11/27/2012

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National Geographic Sea Lion

From the National Geographic Sea Lion in Costa Rica & Panama

Isla Coiba National Park While we slept, National Geographic Sea Lion continued sailing through the night up the Pacific Coast. We awakened in the morning in one of Panama’s newest and largest national parks. Covering 700,000 acres and including 27 islands, Coiba National Park is the third-largest marine park in the world. The namesake and largest of these islands, Isla Coiba, along with several surrounding islands, has been virtually untouched by development because it housed a self-sustaining prison from 1919 up until very recently. In 2003 the last of the prisoners were relocated and the area achieved its National Park designation. Next year it will be named a World Heritage Site. We spent the day enjoying the beautiful white sandy beaches and turquoise waters of two of these islands. First stop: Granito de Oro (“Little Grain of Gold”). Imagine a tiny spit of sand peeking out of turquoise waters, with a handful of palm trees along a crescent band of rock and coral outcroppings. This little paradise is home to thousands of hermit crabs sporting shells of various shapes, colors and sizes. Snorkelers, swimmers and kayakers explored the rich waters, teeming with fishes and wildlife supported by the coral. A few lucky people were visited by a turtle! Our second stop for the day: picnic lunch on the main island near the ranger station, followed by relaxed strolls along the beach and through forest trails on the lookout for birds, and second rounds of snorkeling, kayaking, and swimming. Back onboard we gathered for a final talk on the history and culture of Panama, and then for cocktails and recap. I noticed a large group remained on the upper bridge deck – reluctant to leave the fresh ocean air and spectacular scenery. At this writing we are underway, heading further north for our entrance into Costa Rica.  

Daily Expedition Reports

1/14/2013

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National Geographic Sea Lion

From the National Geographic Sea Lion in Costa Rica and Panama

Playa Caletas & Corcovado National Park After spending the night anchored in the calm waters of Drake’s Bay, National Geographic Sea Lion weighed anchor and navigated towards our morning destination. Up on the sun deck a group of guests joined our wellness specialist Susan for their daily stretching as we cruised. Spectacular scenery could be seen from the ship. A lush forest was revealed to us as we approached Playa Caletas. On shore, a group of horses waited eagerly to take some of our guests through forest trails and to enjoy the shoreline of the Osa Peninsula. So, as soon we finished our breakfast, we grabbed our gear and went ashore. We landed on a private property, whose owner we kindly call “Van Van.” On his property are trails that lead to a spectacular primary growth forest. Those who didn’t go horseback riding went hiking and walking to explore this forest. It was a morning loaded with adventure and learning. At our return to our station, a troop of white-faced capuchin monkeys decide to pay us a visit. Curious about their behavior, we gathered under a mango tree to watch them closely. The monkeys paid less attention to us since foraging was lot more important to them. Slaty-tailed trogons and black-throated trogons sang as the monkeys passed next to them. Our hotel manager Erasmo Estripeaut and the galley had prepared a delicious barbecue lunch for us. So we gathered around the picnic tables to enjoy the meal and share our unique experience in this tropical rain forest. We had to recharge our batteries since the afternoon had more activities to enjoy. The afternoon activities were held at San Pedrillo Station. This station is part of Costa Rica’s most pristine jewel, Corcovado National Park. This park was established in 1975 to protect 103,259 acres of tropical rain forest. With this vast land, animals can roam without fear of being hunted. We divided in groups to explore the different trails. A group went along a trail that follows the shoreline; troops of spider and howler monkeys were their major sightings. Another group decided to take a trail that leads to a great reward. As lush as it can be, the rain forest is also quite humid. But at the end of the trail, a nice waterfall invited us to refresh ourselves. At the end of the day, we all agreed that it is an important task that we all have in terms of conserving what we still have. It was another awesome day in a great paradise!

Daily Expedition Reports

1/25/2013

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National Geographic Sea Lion

From the National Geographic Sea Lion in Costa Rica & Panama

Manuel Antonio National Park This morning National Geographic Sea Lion anchored in front of Manuel Antonio National Park. Before breakfast some guests joined the wellness specialist on the bridge deck for stretching and exercise. As soon as the park opened, disembarkation began. This time the choices were to either walk up to Punta Cathedral or explore the Sloth Valley trail. While the walk I was leading yielded us a couple of pale-billed woodpeckers, agoutis, sloths and white-faced capuchin monkeys, other guests witnessed the passive behavior of mantled howler monkeys, several reptiles and amphibians like litter skink, Central American whiptail, black iguana, anoles lizard and the beautiful gladiator tree frog. After our morning outings we all gathered once again to either have a refreshing swim in the warm waters of Manuel Antonio or to sit and enjoy the refreshing breeze under the shade of a guacalillo tree. We all came back on board for lunch, and then had time for a well-deserved siesta. A second transfer service granted the possibility of coming back to the beach to spend the afternoon swimming, lounging and/or exploring a bit more the trails of the park. Late afternoon, National Geographic Sea Lion lifted anchor and sailed toward Herradura Beach. The end of the day provided one last beautiful event as we were sailing north; we came upon two humpback mothers and their calves swimming gently. The calves were extremely curious at our presence and approached the ship when we were at a complete stop. Following the regulations in Costa Rica, we stayed with them for 30 minutes and as soon as we resumed our route one adult started raising its flipper into the air and slapping it down on the surface of the water. We all have a great time observing their curious behavior and without a doubt we felt lots of joy for such a closing of our expedition in Panama and Costa Rica.

Daily Expedition Reports

2/4/2013

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National Geographic Sea Lion

From the National Geographic Sea Lion in Costa Rica and Panama

Pearl Island Archipelago, Panama Very early in the morning, the National Geographic Sea Lion dropped its anchor between a group of islands known as the Pearl Island Archipelago. A cold breeze welcomed us as we decided to join an early birding cruise. As we looked up to the sky, our eyes where delighted with different shapes of sea birds that were soaring over us. We took the Zodiacs to get closer to several islands that had seabirds’ colonies. Two of them, Pacheca and Pachequita, are known for the amount of sea birds that nest in these islands. We were delighted with the sexual display of the male frigate bird that had inflated their red gular pouch to attract the females. These birds, even though they have webbed feet, can’t plunge dive for their food. For this reason, they have an interesting feeding behavior better known as “kleptoparasitism.” These islands also have a very healthy population of brown boobies, blue footed boobies, brown pelicans, neotropical cormorants and some migrant visitors as the peregrine falcon, zone tail hawk, osprey and many other species of shore birds. Why do they gather over these islands? The answer deals with an interesting fact. The area is well known because of the upwelling zone that we have on the Gulf of Panama. The trade winds blow the warm surface water, allowing the cold currents from the bottom to rise, bringing a lot of nutrients with it. This creates a great feeding frenzy over the area. It was amazing to see the pelicans and boobies plunge diving for their early meal while the magnificent frigate birds were waiting to see who to harass. It was just a spectacular morning. After our morning exploration, the National Geographic Sea Lion repositioned in front of a spectacular islet known as Bartolome. Here, the opportunity for swimming was offered and many guests decided to take a fast swim. The white sand invited everyone to relax and explore the islet. We would have spent more time enjoying the beach but we had to return to our ship. One hundred and ninety nautical miles had to be covered in order to reach our next destination. As we navigated away from the archipelago, we were escorted by several pods of pantropical spotted dolphins. They were enjoying a feast of fish among the several pelicans, black terns and laughing gulls that joined for this feeding frenzy. What a great day we had!

Daily Expedition Reports

2/19/2013

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National Geographic Sea Lion

From the National Geographic Sea Lion in Costa Rica & Panama

Coiba Island National Park: Jicarita Island & Granito de Oro In the early morning hours, the glowing orange sun rose over National Geographic Sea Lion’s location at the wild destination of Coiba National Park, the third largest marine park in the world! This park has been protected from development due to the former establishment of a prison on the main island. After early risers had a chance to photograph the sunny explosion of color and vibrancy over the water, all went to have breakfast and get ready for the Zodiac cruise excursions of two rounds. One starting at 8:15am and the other at 9:40am, transporting guests close to the shoreline to view wildlife and watch the surf crash up along the jagged rocky region where the ocean meets the cliffs. There were many birds spotted in their natural habitats such as a peregrine falcon, common black hawks, a white ibis, bare-throated tiger heron and nesting brown boobies. All in all it was sunny and pleasant, with a gentle breeze for a glorious morning. During transit to Granito de Oro, Dr. Dean Gushee gave a stunning presentation on his experiences in Antarctica traveling with National Geographic photographers. His footage of the cold, antsy penguins warmed our hearts. The afternoon was relaxing as we enjoyed an ice cream sundae bar on the sundeck and cruised towards our destination of Granito de Oro. Upon arrival to the white sandy beach, we had opportunities to kayak, snorkel, and rest on the beach. Most did all of the above and some energetic swimmers daringly snorkeled around the island to view the marine life and burn a few calories.

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