British Columbia’s Inside Passage, 9/6/2022, National Geographic Sea Lion
National Geographic Sea Lion
First light found us cruising the wild coast of Princess Royal Island, home of the famous and elusive spirit bear, or the white black bear, found only in this particular part of the world. Princess Royal Island is huge (80 kilometers long) and has been caught in a struggle between logging and conservation for many years. Recently, the Killisnoo Conservation Area was established to protect a large area of old growth forest and the salmon habitat for the spirit bears and other wild denizens of this special place.
Midmorning, we boarded our Zodiacs for a closer look at this remote area. Puffs of breath from numerous humpback whales floated above the western red cedar lined channel. White heads of bald eagles dotted the trees, and raucous calls of ravens entertained us while we marveled at the numerous waterfalls cascading down the steep faces of these fiord lands. Several groups of Zodiac cruisers witnessed the remarkable strategy of humpback whales bubble-net feeding. A whale blows a ring of underwater bubbles and flashes its pectoral flippers to concentrate a group of small schooling fish before it explodes at the surface with its gigantic, open mouth filled with tiny, terrified fish.
Green Inlet offered a wilderness exploration by rubber boot and by sea. Kayakers and Zodiac cruisers paddled up the fiord while a group of intrepid bushwhackers climbed the steep, mossy slopes and pressed through the old growth forest to find, at last, a beautiful chicken-of-the-woods fungus glowing orange in the soft wet afternoon light.
Photo caption: Visiting British Columbia’s Inside Passage. Photo by Bette Lu Krause
Bette Lu's adventurous spirit has taken her around the world by sea — those adventures include tramping about the oceans on old break-bulk freighters, navigating the South Pacific Ocean and on to Antarctica on research vessels as well as several seas...
This morning found us where the Pacific Ocean meets Cross Sound and Icy Strait, the Inian Islands. Named by William Healey Dall, one of Alaska's earliest scientific explorers, in 1879, the Inians are a mecca for wildlife. The powerful tidal currents flowing in and out daily create a tremendous upwelling of nutrient-rich water. This area is where fishing boats from the various ports in the northern portion of the Inside Passage enter and exit. It was a glorious day with calm seas, which allowed us to cruise around the various islands in our Zodiacs drinking in the fantastic scenery and looking for wildlife. Unmissable were the Steller (or northern) sea lions, the largest member of the “eared seals,” first described in 1742 by Georg Wilhelm Steller, the German surgeon and naturalist on the Bering expedition. We saw many of them on “bachelor haul-outs,” rocks where single males of all ages bask, posture and feed on numerous species of fish. Sea otters with pups are just about the cutest animals on the planet! As members of the weasel or mustelid family, southern sea otters are the smallest marine mammal. Like other members of this family, they have very thick fur. In fact, at 850,000 to 1 million hairs per square inch, sea otters have the thickest fur of any mammal. Without blubber to protect them from chilly ocean waters, sea otters rely on their thick fur.
The “crown jewel of the Park Service” is a fitting title for Glacier Bay National Park. With blue skies above and Marjorie Glacier in front of us, we started our day of exploration. Brown bears roamed the shorelines, mountain goats did convincing imitations of laundry piles. A group of Steller sea lions seemed to take exception to our attentions towards the goats on Gloomy Knob and photo-bombed them. Onward to Geike Inlet where a sleepy brown bear reclined in a snowbank, and five wolves traipsed up a snow slope, and a moose reclined down the inlet in the same style as our prior bear. Onward to South Marble Island with the boisterous and odiferous Steller sea lions draped about the shoreline rocks. Staccato squawks of kittiwakes and other gulls filled the air as a pair of bald eagles sporadically took flight, upsetting the avian residents of the island. A stroll around the park headquarters at Bartlett Cove amongst bird song and golden light put the finishing touch on our day in a gem of a national park.
Our day began with an on board stretch class on the sun deck led by our wellness specialist. Not only is this a great way to prepare for the day's activities, but participants have a pretty good chance of seeing wildlife amongst the beautiful Alaskan backdrop. Fresh smoothies were offered at the end as a reward! Later that morning, our team embarked on an extraordinary Zodiac expedition to the breathtaking Inian Islands, situated off the coast of Alaska. Nestled within the Gulf of Alaska, these pristine islands are home to a diverse array of wildlife. Under the captivating sunshine, we encountered an awe-inspiring ecosystem teeming with sea lions, otters, humpback whales, and eagles. Join us as we delve into the fascinating world of these magnificent creatures and unveil the wonders that May brings to this marine wonderland. Sea lions, Rulers of the Rocky Shores: As we approached the rocky shores of the Inian Islands, we were greeted by a boisterous chorus of barks and growls emanating from the colony of Steller sea lions. These massive creatures can grow up to 11 feet in length and weigh over a ton, and they rule over the rocky outcrops with their majestic presence. We marveled at their agility as they effortlessly navigated the treacherous terrain, leaping from one rock to another. Males, with their impressive manes and formidable size, asserted their dominance, while playful pups engaged in spirited frolicking nearby. These intelligent and social animals reminded us of the intricate dynamics of their society, where hierarchy and vocalizations play a significant role. Otters, Mischievous Guardians of Kelp Forests: In the tranquil kelp forests surrounding the Inian Islands, we had the privilege of observing the enchanting behavior of sea otters. These charismatic creatures, renowned for their playful antics, floated on their backs and used rocks as makeshift anvils to crack open their favorite meal—abalone and sea urchins. Their thick fur, composed of up to one million hairs per square inch, kept them warm in the chilly waters. We were enthralled by their dexterity as they groomed their fur meticulously, almost as if performing an underwater ballet. It was truly a delight to witness these mischievous guardians of the kelp forests; their presence is vital to maintaining the delicate balance of the ecosystem. Humpback whales, Singers of the Sea: Our journey took a momentous turn as we encountered the gentle giants of the deep—humpback whales. May marks their arrival in the waters surrounding the Inian Islands after they migrate from their tropical breeding grounds. These magnificent creatures, measuring up to 50 feet long and weighing up to 40 tons, graced us with their majestic presence. With each exhalation, towering spouts of mist pierced the air, announcing their presence in a grand spectacle. We were enthralled by their acrobatic displays as they breached and slapped their tails against the water, seeming to celebrate their arrival in these abundant feeding grounds. The air was filled with the haunting melodies of their songs, a testament to their extraordinary communication skills. It was a truly humbling experience to witness these gentle giants in their natural habitat. Eagles, Lords of the Skies: As we explored the rugged cliffs and towering trees of the Inian Islands, we couldn't help but notice the commanding presence of bald eagles. With their iconic white heads and piercing eyes, these majestic raptors soared effortlessly through the skies, embodying the spirit of freedom and power. Their sharp talons and keen eyesight enabled them to spot fish swimming near the surface of the water. We watched in awe as these formidable hunters swooped down with incredible precision to snatch fish from the water's surface. The presence of these magnificent birds added a touch of regality to the already awe-inspiring landscape.