The tempest continued through our passage from the channels leaving Strait of Magellan southward westward and then eastward into the very western part of the Beagle Channel. During the night the ship’s bridge officers and Chilean pilots guided us between islands and through the maze of channels. Only in a couple short stretches did we have to leave the protection of the islands and become exposed to the wind and swells of the Southern Ocean. Few of us noticed because National Geographic Explorer handles superbly unsettled weather. By breakfast we were in the Beagle Channel being pushed along by the wind on our stern.
Rain continued off and on as we passed the many glaciers entering the channel. Ronche, Allemania, Frances, Italia—names given by early exploration of the channel. Very few of the place names in Tierra del Fuego come from the local indigenous people. Most of the locations were named by European explorers and those names continue to be used. However our afternoon’s destination is known by the indigenous Yagan name Yendaigaa meaning “deep bay.”
Yendegaia was added to Chile’s national park system just in 2014. However the area had been protected previously by the private organization, Fundacion Yendegaia, which purchased the old estancia. Today the park encompasses 372,000 acres and contains 32% of Chile’s Andean antiboreal grassland. Fortunately the weather cooperated for the afternoon and we were able to spend a few hours exploring some of the park.
We landed on a small sandy beach and then divided into different levels of walking. Long hikers followed a narrow trail above the shoreline. Other hikers ventured along the same trail but for a shorter distance. A few decided to explore the area on their own either just inland at the edge of the forest or along the shores. A raging small stream kept most people from crossing to the other side of the area. We were surprised by a visit from a Chilean Coast Guard patrol boat and then an official looking helicopter that landed in the grassy area across the stream. Lots of pictures were taken by our guests as well as those in the helicopter and on the boat. Another group ventured down the coast to some mounds and shell piles, probably remains of some ancient fishing inhabitants. Periodic spots of sunshine made for a very pleasant afternoon.
Once we were all aboard we left Yendegaia to continue eastward in the Beagle Channel. Wind at our back again we progressed toward tomorrow’s destination.
