As we work our way northwards and westwards towards the Falkland Islands, the air is getting warmer and the weather more settled. Although we have left the Southern Ocean and entered the South Atlantic, the seabird species composition reminds us that we are not far from the frigid waters of Antarctica. Today we had phalanxes of grey petrel, great shearwater, and white-chinned petrel following the ship, as well as wandering and royal albatross (the two largest flying birds on the planet!).
3/2/2025
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Gold Harbour
South Georgia on my mind. It has been on our minds for some time now, and this morning we finally set foot on the island that is David Attenborough’s favorite place on Earth. And it sure lives up to its reputation. At least 25,000 pairs of king penguins met us as we landed at Gold Harbour. Low winds and warm sunshine made it a contrast to our last stop, the South Orkneys. Some of us headed up toward Gold Head, while others enjoyed the hustling and bustling of the colony on the beach. Cooper Bay has always been a spectacular site for a Zodiac cruise. The rugged geology and the surrounding kelp forests offer an experience in sensory overload. We also observed the elusive macaroni penguin. These penguins live in Cooper Bay and other inaccessible places on the island. They can be hard to get to, despite being the most numerous penguins in South Georgia, with at least two million individuals. It was a stunning first day of adventure around this beautiful isle.