Alberto de Agostini National Park, Southern Chile, 10/28/2023, National Geographic Explorer
Aboard the
National Geographic Explorer
Patagonia
Today was an action-packed day here on National Geographic Explorer as we explored the Magallanes Region of Chile at the foot of Cordillera Darwin. We were underway all night and woke up navigating through this intricate system of channels, islands, and fjords. Overnight, a fresh dusting of snow fell on the mountains, creating wonderful photographic opportunities.
After a very short shuttle from the ship to shore, we landed on a pebble beach where branches of southern beech trees reached out to greet us. After a short walk along the beach, we rounded a corner to be greeted by the Aguila Glacier reflected in a tidal lagoon. We spent the morning exploring this lagoon and dipped into the forest to explore more.
In the afternoon, we set out in Zodiacs and kayaks to explore the face of a tidewater glacier in a bay called Punta Baja. In the early evening, we got a chance to learn from guest speaker Rodrigo Munzenmayer about his important work in Karukinka with the Wildlife Conservation Society. I think I can speak for everyone on board when I say we are excited to begin another day of exploring here in Patagonia aboard National Geographic Explorer.
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Today was our last full day on board, so the decision was made to go big before we go home! National Geographic Explorer positioned beside Observatory Island at 5:00 am, and the deck crew dropped our Zodiacs as the sun rose behind the rugged peaks of Staten Island. We were going for a pre-breakfast cruise! Expedition travel always means being flexible, as changing weather and other factors can mean an abrupt change in plan. But this was yet another morning when we were able to accomplish Plan A. Near-windless conditions meant for a slow, glassy, rolling swell. That, coupled with the slanted golden light of early morning, made for a photographer’s dream! Observatory Island is seldom visited by anyone. The fur seals were curious about us, approaching our Zodiacs and kicking and splashing. We observed many bird species we had not yet seen on this voyage, ranging from snowy sheathbills (common in Antarctica) to black-faced ibises, and we had wonderfully close views of Magellanic penguins, both on land and at sea. By 8:00 am, we were back on the ship for a hot breakfast as we headed for Cabo San Juan and the famous “Lighthouse at the End of the World” on the remote eastern tip of Staten Island. With glassy sea conditions and the sun beating down on us, the weather was decidedly “un-Patagonian.” In fact, it was nearly tropical! It was perfect for a hike over rolling hills of spongy peat bog up to the lighthouse, where we looked down at our ship anchored in the turquoise waters of the kelp-fringed bay. It was a stunning end to an amazing nine days of Patagonian exploration. After lunch, National Geographic Explorer turned back westward and headed over sun-spangled seas towards Ushuaia, where we will finish our voyage tomorrow.
Our expedition to Franklin Bay in Staten Island was a mesmerizing journey into a tapestry of diverse wildlife. Among the wonders we encountered, the rockhopper penguin colony and numerous striated caracaras left an indelible mark. Native to the southern tip of South America, Staten Island, and the Falklands, these unique birds added a touch of rarity and wonder to our experience. However, the island's natural sanctity has been marred by the presence of introduced species like goats and red deer. Amidst this, hope emerges as discussions center on future conservation initiatives to restore the island to its original state. Later, as we embarked on a serene hike in Puerto Cook, we traversed the island's paths, which allowed us to embrace the essence of this beautiful place. Just as our journey was drawing to a close, we spotted a lone king penguin on the beach. Despite bearing signs of past injury, the wounds seemed on the mend, hinting at a promising recovery. Our hearts stirred with hope that this resilient penguin might eventually reunite with its companions on the nearby islands. Our day's escapade was a blend of discovery, contemplation on conservation, and a heartwarming encounter with nature's resilience. It reinforced our commitment to the preservation of these delicate ecosystems and left an enduring impression of hope for the healing and revival of this island's remarkable wildlife.
It’s not every day that you wake up in the Pacific Ocean and go to sleep in the Atlantic, but that is what today was about on National Geographic Explorer : translocation. Our day started with a relatively early Zodiac cruise into Seno Garibaldi. Assigned to the last Zodiac, I saw everyone depart until the mudroom was empty…and there was no one to ride with me! Through the rectangular opening of the starboard gate, I watched the ice drift by, slowly borne by the shimmering glacial waters, until the choco-boat arrived. I had the amazing chance to tag along with my colleagues in the hospitality section. Marek, Merrick, Andrea, Gabriela, and I became an unlikely bunch of Vikings – “friendly ones!” Andrea reassured everyone as we handed out hot chocolate. It was great fun! One group saw a sea lion, another a Magellanic penguin. As for us, two lady condors escorted us back to the ship. The transit through the Beagle Channel (whose name in Yaghan is Onashaga) felt invigorating. We sailed past the snow-capped hills and the forests of Nothofagus, slowly saying goodbye to the majestic silence of the Chilean fjords. The lounge was taken over by thrilling presentations that connected us to that wild world out there: we learned about seabirds with Javier, the history of the Indigenous peoples of the Southern South with Jackie, and underwater biodiversity with Rachel. Between the end of the last presentation and recap, while the ship was heading towards Ushuaia to enter Argentina, I went up to the bridge to say goodbye to our Chilean pilots who guided us so expertly through the labyrinthine fjords. The day ended with a beautiful surprise: our Filipino crew, dressed in gauzy, traditional clothes, prepared a festive Filipino-style dinner with a buffet of delicious courses, beautiful decorations, and delicately carved watermelons. Between bites of delicious lechón, one of my interlocutors said: “In the world out there, there’s war and conflict. And it’s amazing to be here, sharing cultures, with happiness, like this.” It left me thinking: when we open up our cultures to others, we also share our homes, even if we might be far away from home. And while National Geographic Explorer traveled eastward towards the Strait of Le Maire, some of us (many of us, I dare hope) were also travelling in other directions: heart-wards, perhaps…
