Exploring the British Columbian Archipelago’s Most Remote Sacred Site By Marc Cappelletti I am walking in the footsteps of chiefs and carvers, warriors and weavers, shamans and slaves; people as connected to the land as the very trees from which they once made their homes. The ground is soft. It is sacred. And it lies at the edge of the world—Haida Gwaii, British Columbia. We are at the ancient village of SGang Gwaay Llnagaay, formerly known as Nan sdins or Ninstints, on the eastern edge of SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island).
When we, as Canadians, talk about our whole country, we say “from coast to coast to coast.” The three coasts feel very different underfoot. In the west, deep moss makes a trail that feels like walking over sofa cushions; in the east, long grasses swish and slap against your boots; and up north rocks and rivulets form tiled patterns over the permafrost. It was the west coast that convinced me to start working at sea.
Newfoundland’s Gros Morne National Park is one of the few places where you can walk on the Earth’s mantle and also cruise glacially carved freshwater fjords.
In this episode of Expedition Spotlight, join Cultural Specialist Susan Flanagan as she reveals what discoveries are in store on our Canadian Maritimes and Newfoundland expedition.
Today we had an optional early wet landing at Cormorant Point’s visitor site, searching for flamingoes and turtles. We also had a fun opportunity to see a few sea lions, Sally Lightfoot crabs and many birds. Back on board for breakfast, we repositioned to our snorkeling site. Today’s underwater wildlife was surreal. Sea lions, fish of all kinds and colors, turtles, sharks, rays, scorpion fish, lobster, eels, and more were encountered. We are currently experiencing the changing seasons and the wildlife is mating, for warmer water will incubate the eggs. We boarded National Geographic Endeavour II for a delicious Mexican lunch as we repositioned again for our visit to the world-famous Post-Office Bay. Before we disembarked, we enjoyed the Darwin presentation given by Naturalist Celso Montalvo. Today we exchanged post cards left from previous visitors to have them hand-delivered, just like the ones our guests are leaving behind. Some of us further explored the bay, opting for kayaking, snorkeling, or enjoying a pleasant walk along the beach. We ended the day with our recap and briefing about our next destination. We are now deeply united with this magical feeling of love, coexistence, and respect for one another as the result of exploring this special place, the Galapagos Islands.
Early in the morning, our guests explored the island by kayak and then with a walk along the beach, where sea lions were sleeping and swimming. After breakfast we went to snorkel at El Bajo, a shoal-reef, and the activity was astonishing. As soon as we jumped into the turquoise water we spotted many amber jacks, a few reef sharks, and many schools of fish. Later on, we found marine turtles, sea stars, and a big Galápagos shark. We ended the excursion swimming with sea lions. It was an incredible morning! In the afternoon we went to Punta Suarez, an iconic place where many animals concentrate in one spot. Mockingbirds, sea lions, crabs, finches, boobies, pelicans, frigates, lava lizards, and more gather here. We walked for a couple of hours on a loop trail, and the experience was unique and amazing. This place is full of wildlife and the scenery is also spectacular. Our guests returned on board very happy and brimming with new memories that will stay with them forever. We had an exceptional day!
Saltation, creep, and suspension - three different ways sand is moved in the wind, depending on wind velocity and the sand grain size. We were clearly experiencing suspension this morning as the strong breeze carried rivers of sand skimming across the beach on Isla Magdalena. Not to be deterred, we romped across the island, learned of the tenacious flora of the dunes and investigated shells, bones, feathers and a whale carcass rolling in the surf.
The Papagayo Peninsula is a mosaic of bays, beaches, islands, and a complex mangrove ecosystem hosting many species of wildlife. We spent the morning swimming and exploring the deciduous forest of the peninsula where we found the objectively adorable ferruginous pygmy owl and a baby mantled howler monkey. After lunch guests explored the mangroves by kayak or Zodiac. Careful scanning of the canopy by our local guides revealed American crocodiles, osprey, black hawks, flocks of parakeets, iguanas, and several species of stunning herons, including a black-crowned night heron. Mangroves are a group of plants with adaptations that allow them to grow and thrive in saltwater environments. To step into this world was a unique ecological treat and a memorable way to begin our immersion in Guanacaste, Costa Rica.
Today is our first day crossing the Drake Passage after our Antarctic journey. We are fortunate to have relatively calm conditions as we cruise through the open seas once more. While we reflect on the wonders of the ice, marine wildlife, and scenery, we learn more about the place we grew to love through presentations from our naturalist team. There is something special about having a moment to pause and reflect. I find the outer decks, with the wind and sea spray, a refreshing place to soak in the moments. Like the seabirds that follow along our stern, we continue on our journey.
