Exploring the British Columbian Archipelago’s Most Remote Sacred Site By Marc Cappelletti I am walking in the footsteps of chiefs and carvers, warriors and weavers, shamans and slaves; people as connected to the land as the very trees from which they once made their homes. The ground is soft. It is sacred. And it lies at the edge of the world—Haida Gwaii, British Columbia. We are at the ancient village of SGang Gwaay Llnagaay, formerly known as Nan sdins or Ninstints, on the eastern edge of SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island).
When we, as Canadians, talk about our whole country, we say “from coast to coast to coast.” The three coasts feel very different underfoot. In the west, deep moss makes a trail that feels like walking over sofa cushions; in the east, long grasses swish and slap against your boots; and up north rocks and rivulets form tiled patterns over the permafrost. It was the west coast that convinced me to start working at sea.
Newfoundland’s Gros Morne National Park is one of the few places where you can walk on the Earth’s mantle and also cruise glacially carved freshwater fjords.
In this episode of Expedition Spotlight, join Cultural Specialist Susan Flanagan as she reveals what discoveries are in store on our Canadian Maritimes and Newfoundland expedition.
We had an early morning in beautiful Arnarfjordur in the Westfjords. We enjoyed a hike up to Dynjandi Waterfall with great views of the fjord below. Summer is just beginning here in Iceland, and we could see wild blueberries, crowberries, and bilberries starting to flower. In the afternoon, we made the journey further north to Isafjardardjup to reposition ourselves for an evening visit to Vigur Island. This small island is home to thousands of sea birds including eiders, black guillemots, puffins, arctic terns and oystercatchers. The island is also home to a local family who farms the eider down for duvets and other down products. It’s a neat little economic cohabitation where the family of humans protects the eiders from predators and in return get to sustainably collect their down. The day ended with some music and Happy Marriage cake in the local café. Onward we go to North Iceland where Siglufjordur awaits our arrival.
Continuing our voyage north along the Norway coast, National Geographic Endurance made a stop at Smola Island today. Smola Island looms large in the history of the local fishing industry, and guests were offered two options to explore: a visit to the small, historic Brattværet Island or a walking tour of the more modern fishing village of Veiholman. Before the advent of powered vessels, Brattværet Island was used a safe haven for fleets of the small sailing vessels returning from sea. Fishermen could unload their catch at the island, avoiding the treacherous reefs surrounding the mainland. In the mid-20th century, the fishermen abandoned the island, and it has become a place with a few summer homes. Our hosts guided us around the island and prepared some fresh Norwegian style waffles! Other guests opted for a walking tour of Veiholman village where a small harbor is home to an active modern fishing fleet. Multicolored houses, flower gardens, and narrow streets add to the authenticity of this charming village.
A nice morning that only got better and prettier and sunnier! Truly a gift to bring guests here to witness the scale and diversity of ice and wildlife. South Marble Island had so many tufted puffins, and a few unexpected horned puffins, with sea lions and humpback whales galore. During lunch, we cruised up towards Margerie Glacier to view the impressive glacier and look for Arctic terns. Afterwards, we went past Gloomy Knob and saw mountain goats, looked for wildlife at Russel Cut (saw an osprey!), and ended the day with a stunning colorful sunset with an abundance of whales!
In the morning, guests aboard National Geographic Venture embarked on incredible Zodiac cruises throughout the Inian Islands. A wildlife hotspot, guests had incredible experiences witnessing Steller sea lions, bald eagles, and even humpback whales! In the afternoon, guests went on hikes and had the opportunity to kayak around George Island, all ending with a wonderful polar plunge for the bold few brave enough to dive into the water.
We started the day in the lovely town of Runde, Norway, where the first group went to the science center, Runde Miljosenter. The guests were provided with both a presentation from one of the scientists about the function of the institute that conducts ecological survey and research, as well as a thorough tour that covered both the natural and local history, especially about the sunken treasure from a Dutch East Indian Company trade vessel. Despite the slightly soggy weather, the strenuous hikers trekked a scenic trail that took them to a vantage point overlooking the breathtaking coast of Norway at the edge of Runde, including a view of a bird colony. The art center offered a variety of paintings to enjoy, and the exhibition included the works of a famous Norwegian named Elling Reitan. The day concluded in Runde as a local band gave a joyous performance in front of National Geographic Endurance as we departed to continue our journey northward through Norway.
